Am in the process of restoring a Farmall A. I want to replace the seals on the pinion and axle shafts, but am having a time getting them apart. I have the axle housing off of the tractor. According to the I & T manual, to remove the pinion shaft, I need to remove the brake drum. Have the set screw loose, but can"t get the brake drum off. Was wondering if I could remove the snap ring on the outer end of the shaft, and bump the shaft out inward? Then I could remove the drum in the press. The pinion gear would have to push the seal and felt seal. For the axle shaft, I have it apart as the I & T manual says, and am to the point where it says to "Bump the shaft on inner end and out of inner bearing, spacer, drive gear and rear axle housing". Got it to move about 1/4", then it doesn"t seem to want to move any more, am wondering if the bull gear is not letting loose of the shaft. Wondering if anyone has any ideas. I don"t wnat ot break something. Thanks!!!!!
- Thread starter DanTo
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
The shaft has to come out thru the housing where the plate is. The one with the 4 cap screws holding.
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
As far as your diff shaft, my memory is a little foggy (it's an age and time-of-day thing), but I'm thinking the reason the shaft has to come off to the outside is that the pinion gear is a larger diameter than the seat for the inner seal, so that you're going to have to find a way to get that brake drum off of there. I have a recollection that I was surprised at how far I had to back off the set screw to get it to clear. Apart from that, I've had to clean them up as best I could and use a little penetrant sozzled into the keyway and very mild heat (no more than a light application from a household propane torch). I recall them coming right off once I got them loose, but it may take a three jaw puller to get them started.
On the bull gear, there shouldn't be anything other than the nut holding it in place and it's likely the gear binding on the shaft. It could also be crud on the shaft binding when it comes to the bearing. Was it dry in there? Another possibility if your movement is less than the 1/4" is that the shaft is stuck to the inner part of one of the bearings -- if the bearing is shot, you could be stuck but still getting a little lateral movement that way. What you might try is fashioning a couple of wooden wedges to hold the bull gear in place side-to-side and then do a little light tunking (NO walloping! I don't want you breaking anything, either.) with a soft-face hammer (or a regular hammer on a wood dowel) on the inner end of the shaft to see if you can get it started.
HTH. Let us know.
On the bull gear, there shouldn't be anything other than the nut holding it in place and it's likely the gear binding on the shaft. It could also be crud on the shaft binding when it comes to the bearing. Was it dry in there? Another possibility if your movement is less than the 1/4" is that the shaft is stuck to the inner part of one of the bearings -- if the bearing is shot, you could be stuck but still getting a little lateral movement that way. What you might try is fashioning a couple of wooden wedges to hold the bull gear in place side-to-side and then do a little light tunking (NO walloping! I don't want you breaking anything, either.) with a soft-face hammer (or a regular hammer on a wood dowel) on the inner end of the shaft to see if you can get it started.
HTH. Let us know.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Say where do ya get a puller with jaws long enough to pull the drum on the drivers side. I have had a whole bunck out in the last few yrs but did have one that i had to use torch and cut it off. All the others have come off easy. Usually the seal is shot and the drum is all covered with tranny grease maybe thats why they come off better. Finishing up a Cub that was a mess bothouter bearings were rusted up and didnt turn. But the brake bands were a oily mess. Sandblasted the bands and they are like new again. Both of those drums came off easy.
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
LOL!! Yep. that would be quite a puller to reach that one! Guess I had the off-side in mind.
I've got a little more coffee in me now, so I'm thinkin' and rememberin' a little more clearly. Havin' a recollection of the one on the driver's side bein' the one that gave me the least trouble on my BN, and it didn't take anything more that a tap on a wedge just to jar it loose and it slipped right off.
I've got a little more coffee in me now, so I'm thinkin' and rememberin' a little more clearly. Havin' a recollection of the one on the driver's side bein' the one that gave me the least trouble on my BN, and it didn't take anything more that a tap on a wedge just to jar it loose and it slipped right off.
P and R Pete
Member
I can't answer for the axle shaft, because I didn't touch them on my SA, but I did my differential shafts, to change the seals, because my brakes were SOAKED with oil.
The set screw on my brake drums actually pressed on the key. You can see in the picture, where it cut into the key.
This acts to raise the other end of the key, which would serve to bind the drum onto the shaft, so I agree with Scotty that the set screw should be backed out pretty far, and that it may need some penetrant, and some working back and forth, to loosen things up. If memory serves me, I did some judicious prying, down in the lower right corner where you can get a 'pry-er' under the drum, then spin the drum around and do it again, (gently), and thus 'work' it loose all around.
I'm sure this is overstating the obvious, but there's a jam nut on that set screw. You have to loosen the jam nut, then back-off the set screw. If things are crudded, where you can't visualize it well, you may be loosening the jam nut and not the set-screw after it.
Once the drum was 'loosened' it came off easily, and once everything was cleaned, went back on with hand pressure, no whacking needed.
Once the drum is off, all I had to do was pop the shaft on the inner end, and the shaft/bearing assembly came right out.
Again, if the bearing is stuck, (and it is NOT a press fit), perhaps some penetrant will help. The bull gear does NOT bind the pinion, and those two should NOT be that tight against each other, or they would grind when running.
The set screw on my brake drums actually pressed on the key. You can see in the picture, where it cut into the key.
This acts to raise the other end of the key, which would serve to bind the drum onto the shaft, so I agree with Scotty that the set screw should be backed out pretty far, and that it may need some penetrant, and some working back and forth, to loosen things up. If memory serves me, I did some judicious prying, down in the lower right corner where you can get a 'pry-er' under the drum, then spin the drum around and do it again, (gently), and thus 'work' it loose all around.
I'm sure this is overstating the obvious, but there's a jam nut on that set screw. You have to loosen the jam nut, then back-off the set screw. If things are crudded, where you can't visualize it well, you may be loosening the jam nut and not the set-screw after it.
Once the drum was 'loosened' it came off easily, and once everything was cleaned, went back on with hand pressure, no whacking needed.
Once the drum is off, all I had to do was pop the shaft on the inner end, and the shaft/bearing assembly came right out.
Again, if the bearing is stuck, (and it is NOT a press fit), perhaps some penetrant will help. The bull gear does NOT bind the pinion, and those two should NOT be that tight against each other, or they would grind when running.
P and R Pete
Member
Danto, I replied on "modern view", because I had some pictures, but my reply isn"t showing up here for whatever reason. Look under "modern view", and maybe the pics will be of some help.
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
In the darker gary bar IMediately above the first line of your original post, at the right hand end - hit Modern View.
Athol Carr
Member
On my Super A I had no trouble getting the brake drums off. the lock screws were never tightened up and the drums had been rubbing on the surrounding castings for 50 years.
You have to get the brake drum off the shaft before you can get the pinion out. The pinion won't go through the hole on the inside and I think there is a shoulder on the shaft anyway that will keep it from going to the inside. The reason you can't drive the shaft out of the brake drum is that the woodruff key that keys the drum to the shaft will catch on the bearing inner race preventing the shaft from coming out. So..you gotta get the drum off the shaft with a puller of some king.
Pete did you replace those brake bands? They look the same as mine on the 130.
(quoted from post at 08:45:06 02/11/09) I can't answer for the axle shaft, because I didn't touch them on my SA, but I did my differential shafts, to change the seals, because my brakes were SOAKED with oil.
The set screw on my brake drums actually pressed on the key. You can see in the picture, where it cut into the key.
This acts to raise the other end of the key, which would serve to bind the drum onto the shaft, so I agree with Scotty that the set screw should be backed out pretty far, and that it may need some penetrant, and some working back and forth, to loosen things up. If memory serves me, I did some judicious prying, down in the lower right corner where you can get a 'pry-er' under the drum, then spin the drum around and do it again, (gently), and thus 'work' it loose all around.
I'm sure this is overstating the obvious, but there's a jam nut on that set screw. You have to loosen the jam nut, then back-off the set screw. If things are crudded, where you can't visualize it well, you may be loosening the jam nut and not the set-screw after it.
Once the drum was 'loosened' it came off easily, and once everything was cleaned, went back on with hand pressure, no whacking needed.
Once the drum is off, all I had to do was pop the shaft on the inner end, and the shaft/bearing assembly came right out.
Again, if the bearing is stuck, (and it is NOT a press fit), perhaps some penetrant will help. The bull gear does NOT bind the pinion, and those two should NOT be that tight against each other, or they would grind when running.
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