1959 Farmall 140

Debi

New User
Help I have a 1959 Farmall 140 gas tractor that I can't start. I ran it last fall and it was running great but when I shut it off it wouldn't start again. I want get new points but don't know how to get the distributor cap off. Its a metal one but I can't find clips on it so there must be screws somewhere. Please if anyone has advise or a diagram I would appreciate it very much.
 

Check more carefully. The distributor may be turned where the clips are not obvious, such as top and bottom. Can't say as I've ever heard of a distributor cap being held on any other way but clips.

Have you pulled a spark plug and checked for spark? You remove the plug, insert the bare plug back into its wire, and lay the base of the plug against the engine block. Crank the engine over and watch for a bright blue spark.

It may be the points, but it could also be any of a dozen other things unfortunately. The coil may not be getting power.

Have you checked to see if the tractor is getting fuel? I've personally forgotten to turn on the fuel at the sediment bowl under the tank SEVERAL times in the last few years. Tractor runs good for 30 seconds then suddenly and inexplicably quits and won't restart... Duh on me. I blame it on 30+ years of not turning the fuel off ever on the farm. Now that I collect them to play with, it's a new habit I'm still trying to form...
 

A METAL distributor cap? That would be a....surprise. So would a cap that does not use clips. Can you find the indentations in the cap where the clips would be?

Mkirsch has good advice. The first thing is to verify if problem is spark or fuel, then go from there--assuming you are sure no one has messed with timing or plug wire sequence since it last ran. . Cap and rotor are my first suspects in a 140 laid up for the winter if the problem is on the spark side. If you get a spark with the big coil wire to the block, but not with a plug wire, then it's a definite. I always keep a spare of both around because you cannot always tell if they are bad. (If they are good, I save the old ones from the last change).If you have no idea when they were last changed, swap them anyway. It's the first thing I do if I have a no-start problem in winter--I think the condensation gets to them. You can get them at NAPA or CaseIH.I have had a 1966 140 since Dad brought it home new from the dealer.
 
Debi: I think we'd all like to see a photo of this metal distributor cap. I rather doubt any of us have seen such a device. I'm just wondering out loud, and I've never seen one, but could it be electronic ignition. Maybe some of the guys that have those could chirp up here.

How cold is it where you live, could it be that moisture has settled in carb, fuel line and sediment bowl and is frozen there, thus stopping fuel flow? Just a thought if you shut it down last fall and working. Take the plug out of bottom of carb, see if you have fuel flow.

If you have fuel flow, and it was working last fall, then shift your attention to spark. Condensation and corosion inside the cap would be my first thought. If you don't know much history about the tractor, may be a good time for new plugs, maybe wires, cap, rotor, points and condencer.

One last thought, is the rotor turning if you crank the engine. I had ice build up in my 130 distributor drive gears. Started the tractor one frosty morning only to have that ice put the finishing touches to some already shaky distributor drive gears.
 

Hugh--I have electronic ignition on my 140. I got the Pertronix from this site but I looked around. All that I saw go inside the distributor, keeping the original cap and rotor. A fully computerized ECU with no distributor is possible, but it would require a sensor on the dist. shaft (or flywheel/crank) and an ignition module to substitute for the rotor and advance mechanism. Programming and mounting on a 140 would be quite a trick, I would think.

I assume '59 140 was born 6 volts, perhaps some major electronic surgery was done at time of a possible 12 volt upgrade. I still think a metal dist cap is unlikely--does such an animal exist in any application?? A cap has to be very non-conductive and I find it hard to imagine any metal could be suitable. I bet on spray-painted plastic looking like metal. Debi--a picture, please?
 
Durk: You state as I expected, just from listening folks discuss the Electronic Ign.

I agree the 59 - 140 would have been 6 volt, but again very unlikely that cap would have been changed. I just wonder if someone might have painted that cap with aluminum paint. That being the case the aluminum paint may be some of Debi's grief. Then there is the question of clips, impossible to position distributor so both are out if sight.
 
I am so sorry I misspke myself the distributor cap cap does have clips and is not metal its a little metal cap that covers the points under the dist. cap. Don"t know how to get that off. Again so sorry but do need help.
Thank you.
 
Debi: Again I think that cap between rotor and points should be plastic, mine all are. Those are just pressed in there, just finger push, usually a bit if digging with a knife will get it. Careful, don't get too vicious, it will break. It could be stuck, just go around the perimiter with a sharp point knife, take any rust and gunk off rim of distributor. Little spray of penetrating oil wont hurt. Patience, it will come.
 

Oh,that cap!...You had us going. What Hugh said, just worry it a bit until you get it to move...some times I would stick a utility knife point (gently) intothe center and pry against the body. I don't use it anymore because it conflicts with the electronic ignition.
 

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