47 belt pulley seal

Jw-Tc

Member
hello yall we are looking for diagram that showes disassembly of belt pulley we got seal leaking.the shop manual we have dont show disassembly. thanks and yall have a good night!
 
Quick possibility: caseih.com set it to USA, then parts and service, then start search here, then put in Farmall, then choose type (not mentioned in your post). Then choose attachments. These diagrams show exploded views. JimN
 
Did mine a while back. Look on Caseih"s site. Order the felt washer too, it"s ussually wore out. I replaced both and it"s now leak free.
 
hello i tried casein.com and did not find letter series tractors.what i need to know how you get the pulley end apart thats were the leak is?do you have to press it off?we have the shaft out. thanks for your help!
 
My 2 sons & I just re-did 2 gearcases for their belt pulleys on their "H"s". M’s are similar.
Remove the capscrews under the pulley mounting flange and the shaft, spacers, & bevel gear will all slide out with a bit of assistance.
Remove the cap screw on the end of the shaft and all the parts can be pulled off.
I was able to obtain replacement bearings at no cost by going to an electric motor rebuilding shop. If my memory is correct you need a 6210 & 6208 bearing for the drive shaft. Remove any shields so the bearing will now lube itself from the transmission oil. Thoroughly clean all old grease residue before installing the used bearing. Factory bearings run $50 or so for the big one so it can be an expensive affair to replace them. NAPA wanted $45 for the 6210 size.
I have a Case/IH dealer in town (Fergus Falls, MN) so obtained the new seal, felt dust washer, and mounting gasket from them at a very reasonable cost.
Carefully clean the metal spacers and put a VERY light coating of silicone on them just before assembly. Don't mix up the cap screws from the drive gear cover with the shaft cover; they are longer (don't ask how I found out) and will not compress the spacers under the pulley flange.
On the drive gear shaft, just remove the 3 cap screws and pull the unit out. Remove 2 fine threaded cap screws & take the bevel gear & bearing off. It is a 6206 size. Watch out for the shift lever plunger & spring as they will jump out if the lever is moved too far. And this will happen as you clean the gear-case. If you need to replace the steel plug in the back of the gear-case, IH doesn't have it any more. Go to an automotive parts rebuilder and get a 1 3/16" soft plug; it can be deeper (longer) than original. Put the spring & plunger back in place, set the large drive gear on the shift lever. Clean & lightly silicone the spacers and reassemble.
The 2 long bolts had copper washers but a dab of silicone will work. Be sure to put them in place in the gearcase BEFORE you slip it into place on the tractor. They won't go in later unless you remove the gas tank or pull the gear-case back out. (I know, experience is a great teacher)
It goes without saying to carefully scrape all old gasket residue off before reassembly. Careful use of a 10" or 12" mill file will do wonders. Use it as a draw file ( sideways motion, not forward & back) to locate any high spots on the metal casting also.
I now have 2 belt pulley gear-cases that work just like new at a very minimal cost.
Sorry for the long post, I was a Vocational Engines instructor in my past life and just can't quit teaching!!
Good luck.
 
caseih.com needs to have Farmall put in the box first. Then when the search engine finds all the farmalls, it starts the list with numbers and proceeds to letters below (we do not know which, but An H would appear by itself then be followed by Super H etc. JimN
 
thanks for info my son took pulley apart but we didnt know how bearings and gear off i thank we can get it now thanks to you. this is our first restore learing as we go and having fun!!
 

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