SUPER-A HDY ARM

HELLO, MY 53 SUPER-A HDY ARM ON THE LEFT SIDE WHERE THE PIN GOES IN TO HOLD THE LIFT ARM THAT GOES TO THE REAR ROCK SHAFT IS WORN-OUT. I TOOK THE BIG NUT OFF BUT THE ARM IS STUCK TO THE SHAFT. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO GET IT OFF.??/ HELP !!! THANKS KEITH

Keith: I'm assuming of the two rockshafts on left, your using the one closest fuel tank for hitch. To remove that rockshaft arm the entire rockshaft has to be removed from the touch control unit.

THE PART THAT I NEED TO FIX IS ON EBAY ITEM # 330304239120 THANK KEITH

I"ll be watching the answers to this one. I tried all fall to get the same part off my super C with no luck. I busted a huge gear puller on it and never moved it at all.

Keith, IF you have a three-arm system, the outer arm on the left should actually pop right off after you remove the nut. It's keyed to the shaft so it needs to come off straight and may take just a little pop with a prybar, chisel or other wedge to start it, but it's a tapered fit (would remind you of a trailer axle spindle) and once its free it should come right away. Be sure to remove (and later replace!) the key, as it might obstruct getting the inner arm off the shaft.

As for the inner arm, I've only had mine off as part of a complete overhaul of the block, so I'll caution that what I'll suggest MIGHT work with the block on the tractor. The first piston link you come to (the one on the left) controls the left inner arm. (The shaft for the outer left and the right-side arms rides on bushings inside this shaft.) Just looking at the parts catalog, once you have the outer arm and key off, the only things holding the inner arm in place are a two-piece bearing (similar to a pillow block) and the wrist pin through the piston rod and the clevis ears on the shaft. The bearing cap can be removed by removing the two bolts holding both pieces to the block, after which the bottom half should slide when you eventually pull the shaft. The wrist pin has smaller pins on the end that ride in two braces -- the one to the left is a double-dogleg affair and the one further in (to the right) is like a wider triangular arch??. If you can remove the bearing and those two braces, you can get the wrist pin out and the shaft should be free.

The inside of the shaft is normally greased and it may be dry or stiff, so that it won't start off easily. In that case, you might try pumping some new grease in then heating it some to pull it away. Like the outer arm, it may like some light to moderate tunking (NO beating!) to get it started off. Take note that one or both of the two bushings for the inner shaft may come away with it along with the inner half of the bearing.

Odd thoughts . . . You should do what you can to clean things up first so you can see where you're going. And of course, it's tight quarters in there, so I'm not sure you can get wrenches in there to get things apart.

If that's the case, Hugh's suggestion of taking both shafts out is likely the way to go. You could try that with the block on the tractor by removing the right-side arm and key and the right-side bearing (a single piece, unlike the two-piece affair on the left) as you did on the left. You may still have the issue of access to get the wrist pin out for the right-side piston (and maybe still the left-side as well), in which case, you'll likely have to remove the controls and the manifold from the pump and pull the whole affair, block and all, and do the rest on the bench.

The four arm shaft will be similar, except that the shaft in questionis two pieces, left and right, keyed to each other so that they operate together. Still, the left side should come away after the outer arm , and the bearing and wrist pin for the left inner arm have been removed.

HTH, and let us know how you make out.

Go to caseih.com, click on parts, click "start your search", type in Super A, open the hydraulics thread and select #234. You can click the + on the view to enlarge it. It shows pretty much everything except the nuts on the ends of the shaft.

We had to remove both the outside left and the right arm each year to mount a one row corn picker on a 200. Use a heavy buggy axel or similar iron rod the heaver the better. If that doesn't work, heat it up and try again. Heat will cause the outer ring to expand and will make it looser.

WELL I TRIED EVERTHING IN THE BOOK TO GET THE ARM OFF BUT NO LUCK. I TOOK THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY OFF AND TOOK IT TO A MACHINE SHOP. THE MACHINE SHOP COULD NOT GET IT OFF SO THEY MADE ME A BUSHING FOR THE ARM THANKS EVERBODY FOR THE HELP