Super A implement bolt size(Flat mount on bell housing)

SteveNH · Feb 1, 2009

What size bolts go in the holes on the side of the bell housing - you know where it is nice and flat, my #60 grader blade frame mounts there. A previous owner was nice enough to sawzall all of the bolt heads off so I have no idea how deep the holes go. I don't want to drill too far in... Also, are they 1/2" or 5/8"? I would like to try the plow out next snow storm - most likely need to invest in tire chains.

Thanks.

Anonymous-0 · Feb 1, 2009

They are 5/8 coarse threads and the threads go thru so there is no blind holes. Are you sure that the corks arent still in the hole as thats the way they left the factory. Hole was plugged with cork.

Anonymous-0 · Feb 1, 2009

I believe the number of threads for 5/8 is 11.
Do you have a welder? You may be able to weld a nut on the bolt body. Allow it to cool and it may turn out quite easily, or not.
SDE

ScottyHOMeY · Feb 1, 2009

That'll work if they are indeed bolts, but I'm kinda bettin' (no more than a nickel, though!) with Gene on the cork. If the tractor was ever cleaned up with a wire brush and painted, the tops of those corks will look just like a sawed off bolt.

SteveNH · Feb 1, 2009

I checked and they are indeed cork. Thanks guys! Better I find out this way then center punching them through the hole. The paint over the cork made it look like shiny metal.

ScottyHOMeY · Feb 1, 2009

LOL!! I had the thought, but Gene was right on the money.

Would've been fun, though, to be a fly on the wall to see you're expression as you had all your tools lined up to weld on a nut or drill out a bolt and wonder what you'd got into when you hit cork. (I'll admit to having a perverse sense of humor.) Not that I ever had a surprise like that. No, sir not me. Nope. Not ever.

Riiigghhhttt!

Back on the serious side, the cork is old and can be a little bit of a pain in the neck to clean out, but it's worth the effort, as you'd be surprised how it will gum up a thread to keep you from gettin' the bolts into it. If you've got one, the easiest way would be to chase it out with a thread tap. A pick is a little more tedious, but still worth the effort.

Happy wrenchin'!

Hugh MacKay · Feb 1, 2009

Scotty: Don't bet too heavily on that being cork. On my first snow blade I sheared one of those bolts at least three times per winter. Granted if you break them that often and remove the blade every summer, usually the broken bolt comes quite easy with a small chisel.

I have run across a couple of tractors with bolts rusted in there. I found drilling, easyout and ample supply of penetrating oil to be best solution.

I solved my problem by bracing my blade back to final drives.

ScottyHOMeY · Feb 1, 2009

LOL! That's why I set a nickel limit!

I remember the first time I ran into one of those corks, I thought I was going to find a snapped off bolt. Then when it wasn't, I thought that was a mighty big hole for a mud dauber to have filled up. Then I looked at the book. #4 cork. On the Bs and BNs, they used #1 corks on the left-side diff housing to fill the holes that would bolt down the rear of the seat platform if it were on the other side. I knew there weren't any Phillips-head screws on these critters, but I never expected to find a hardware store cork for a listed part.

Super A implement bolt size(Flat mount on bell housing)

SteveNH

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Anonymous-0

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Anonymous-0

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ScottyHOMeY

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SteveNH

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ScottyHOMeY

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Hugh MacKay

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ScottyHOMeY

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