farmall m 3 point

I have a farmall m that I want to add a 3 point system to and would like to know if the axle bolts would be strong enough for the mounting point of the hitch?[/b]

The three point hitch usually mounts to the drawbar assembly mounted on the axels. The bolts are strong enough. A M with a three point hitch is a great unit. I have a Saginaw set up and it works great.

thanks for the info. the reason I needed to know if the axle bolts were strong enough is I am in the process of make ing my own 3 point kit and these bolts would be the mounting point of the system .

the bolts that I am refering to are the ones that hold the axles to the center section of the rear end

somebody on here made their own 3 point that mounted to the axle attatchment bolts. It was based on the 450 fasthitch. Hopefully they will chime in. it looks much more streamlined than the commercially available models that clamp around the axle housing.

karl f

jdm: Have a look at factory 3 point hitches, especially tractors like 504, 656 and 544. This will tell you what is wrong with a Saginaw hitch. Good 3 point hitches work well because the point where lower links attach to tractor is roughly 70% as wide apart as they are at the implement.

I you build a Farmall C type drawbar for your M, incorperating holes in the side plates for mounting the lower links, you will have a nice hitch. I have a photo here on such a hitch on a C. If you wish send me an e mail, I'll send you the photo. Good plan, all you need do is use heavier metal.

Hugh: Have you ever used M with Saginaw? Mine works pretty good on anything that does not need draft control planter, cultivator, rotary cutter amoung other things and yes I have run a lot of different brands os factory 3 points.

Yes the axle bolts are strong enough. I built plates that bolt to those points then it mounts the fast hitch components. Works great and looks almost factory. If you type in "M 3 point" in the photos search and look at the photo with my handle you will see a good view of what I did. First pic is without the sway control I added later. Last pic shows the sway control.

Just figured out that the photo search allows search by handle. Type in dansuper27 and you will get all photos I have submitted.

I have an M with a aftermarket 3 point that has one cylinder and down force with the factory remote valve. Good for some things but that 3 point was mangled when I got it and I made it worse when trees I was bushogging shoved the lever into down position when I wasnt looking. It then bent the tar out of my bushogg hitch and turned it into a rotary roto tiller. The M has wheel wieghts and water in the tires so it takes no prisoners. I also have an H that I put a saginaw on and it has been the sweetest thing since sliced bread. Not one problem. Now the H just has one way hydros, no downforce so that is a factor especially in cold weather since it goes down slow till it warms up but still , it has been sweet and I have pulled some mighty big logs with it. Lets just say this, the brakes did my steering on those. I never did hook up the swinging drawbar on the H since I mostly use a boom pole and it would be in the way, but if doing tillage I would want the swinging drawbar as it has a nice steady low pulling point. Since I do a lot of logging, it is nice to keep the load out of the dirt so it doesn't eat saw blades or chains but I can drop the load down if it wants to rear up in front. As far as axel mounts go, not a problem unless you get stupid with it and they can crack where they go in the rear end housings. (One of my axel housings has a small stress crack where it goes in the housing but has been no problem, someone in the past probably snapped a slack chain to cause it) Be nice to it and it will be nice to you.

NDS: Have you ever used a 656, with 3 point hitch? Didn't think so, or you wouldn't make such a ridiculous statement. In fact not many 3 point hitches hold a candle to those Farmall lower link sencing units of the 60s and 70s.

I have used a Saginaw, and I've also used about 25 other hitches built by Deere, CaseIH, NH and Kubota since 1990.

Dan: I saw the photo of that hitch when you first posted it. A real neat fabrication, and I'm betting it works better than a Saginaw.

Another photo he could use is rear shot of a Super BMD or B-450. Those British factory 3 point hitches are quite similar to yours.

I believe I said Saginaw works good on applications that did not need draft conrol.

(quoted from post at 15:03:55 01/30/09) jdm: Have a look at factory 3 point hitches, especially tractors like 504, 656 and 544. This will tell you what is wrong with a Saginaw hitch.

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Gosh, Hugh, you told me to get a Saginaw when I mentioned to you I wanted a good 3-point hitch for my Super M. mike

Mike Big difference, he wanted to fabricate his own, you didn't. If I misunderstood you give me hell via personal e mail.

Saginaw do a good fabrication for the dollars they ask. It will cost more to completely abandon the M drawbar then build a complete 656 type drawbar complete with 3 point hitch. If you wish, load the SM on, come for a visit and we will fabricate what looks almost identical to 656. We may spoil almost $3,000. of your money. Very likely you could sell the SM, and buy a good 656 for less money.

Yes that hitch works great. There is one pic with my 3-point sprayer and it lifts it fine with 100 gals of water. That"s single cylinder with the belly pump. I also have a 4 row cultivator and since I have the cylinder set-up as 2 way I can put down pressure when I need it. That hitch turns the old M into a whole different machine, much more usable. Even though I have newer and bigger tractors the M is my favorite.

hugh; thanks for the info and yes I have been looking at all tractor 3 points to get ideas and I think a good way of doing it and keeping the factory hitch.I think I am going to base of the style of a older allis chalmers style.

did you make all of your parts or didiyou use parts off of other tractors for your 3 point system?