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Distributor problem on my 400 ?

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
It would not even fire. When I opened the points by hand, they sparked. I traded the rotor and cap from a different tractor and it started.

Put the "BAD" rotor and cap back on the other tractor. We pull started the second tractor and it ran just fine.

Now six weeks later, my first tractor is back to not having any spark to the plugs again.

If the points have voltage to them, what other problems can there be besides the rotor and the cap? Could it be that the battery to weak to get enough voltage to the coil, while the starter is being engaged? The battery is still able to roll the motor over fast enough that it should start and long enough as well.

Thank you SDE
 
pull a spark plug, hook it up to the plug wire, lay it on the motor so it is grounded and crank it over. you should have a good blue spark. if not, pop the cap rotor and dust cover off, hook the end of the spark plug wire into the coil, then with the ignition on, open and close the points. you should get a brite blue spark, if not sand the points lightly with some 320 or 400 grit paper and try again. if not, i'd start looking at the condenser, or possibly a short where the wire goes thru the distributor and connects to the points.
 
Glennster's Ideas are good. A couple more analysis ideas. The cap and rotor that were switched were possibly good. (the other tractor ran)
The coil can draw current and not fire high voltage out the tower. Sapping the coils to the other tractor would eliminate that factor. The possible differences in humidity can cause the issue (depends on weather conditions and it is common.
Dry out the cap and rotor, then use silicon spray in the inside (of the cap and rotor, not the points) to reduce moisture condensation and try it again. A weak ignition switch with high resistance or a partially broken wire to the coil from ign sw. can also let there be spark but no fire. If 12volt it should have at least 10 volts at the coil terminal connected to the ign sw when cranking. If 6 volts, it needs about 5 at the coil when cranking. Any less than these numbers will not reliably spark.
Pull start the (first) 400 to see if it runs easily that way. If it does not, it is much easier to find the grief. JimN
 
SDE,
I have had the same problem on my 300. Tractor stops, no spark. Open the cap, spark the points a few times and tractor starts right up. Replace the points and it runs good for another 6 months. The old points always look good. It appears the points get a film on them. Found that cleaning the points with tuner or contact cleaner solves the problem. And this lasts about 6 months too. Lot cheaper than new points. Don't know why the points get the film. Someone on this forum suggested doing this and it seems to work. You might want to try it.
Al
 
Check the insulator on the bolt that goes through the distributor housing. Had a similar problem with my H, did a whole bunch of stuff to try and solve the problem, and FINALLY found the bake-a-lite insulator was cracked. It took a plastic insulator that the parts man @ local NAPA came up with to fit the hole & the bolt, as IH didn't have the bake-a-lite insulator, I think it was a Datsun distributor part. Its been in there for several years w/no problems. (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)
 
MKRISCH,

My 300 Utility is always stored inside a machine shed. I use it more in winter since it has a loader with a snow bucket. Season doesn't seem to make much difference. Happens about every 6 months.

AJB
 
Thank you for the ideas. My tractor is stored in a barn and with all the snow around the barn, I will not be able to pull start it. I had thought that I had the insulator problem resolved a year ago, but maybe that is still the problem. I will clean the points at the same time that I recheck the insulator.
Thank you again
Steve
 

Steve,

If it cranks over good and won't start, pulling it around the yard won't make any difference anyway... Still not gonna spark.
 
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