Farmall B clutch

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1066

New User
We replaced a clutch disk in a B and now it wont release properly.Is there a noticeble differance in a Rockford and an Atwood disk.It looked simular but the old one was turned in for core so we cant measure them.We have checked all the simple things like free travel,flywheel and pressure plate are free of rust,none of the linkage hols or pedal are wore out.The flywheel apears to have the step in it for the pressure plate to sit in. Does it need the double cut when the flywheel is turned could have had that problem before retirement. Anyone have this measurement or know were we could find it online.We found finger adjustment specs for a Rockford clutch but not our Atwood. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
 
The clutch disk can be put in wrong. If the flywheel side is not to the flywheel, it will not release. The drive hub rubs on the flywheel mount. This or bad spline wear on the clutch shaft, or a bad pilot bearing will cause the issue. If the disk got bent from pressure during insertion of the engine to trans, the bent hub will also drag on the Drive components. JimN
 
Jim, I don't see how anybody could put the disk in backwards. The hub of the disk is considerably longer on the side that goes toward the transmission. If you did try to put it toward the flywheel, I don't think you could mount the pressure plate, the bolts wouldn't reach and it would never release.

At least that is how it looked on the ones I've worked on.
 
I think JimN is onto the problem, but just to be clear, what do you mean by not releasing properly? Are you meeting resistance or is it just not releasing?
 
The step in the flywheel should be cut when the flywheel is refaced. The dimension is in the repair manual, I don't remember it offhand.

However, if it is not ground, it seems to me that the clutch would slip, not fail to release.

Sounds like maybe a bad pilot bearing, or the pressure plate fingers are not adjusted right. Is the throwout bearing facing worn? That might do it too. I would always replace the pressure plate and throwout bearing with the disk rather than have to go back into it another time.
 
1066,I had the same problem with a F20,I used a used clutch and a used pressure plate that I bought separate from each other,I had to shim the pressure plate,{or adjust the fingers out more}so the pressure plate would release the clutch.Did you replace both the pressure plate and clutch at the same time.Sometimes saving money is expensive.

jimmy
 
No we didn't the customer thought we could save it. We adjusted the fingers out and now when you hold the pedal down the fingers move away from the adj. bolts. My guess is that the new disk is not compatible with the old Atwood pressure plate. With me holding the clutch pedal down and looking in the inspection cover when you turn the PTO shaft it turns the engine over,it is not even close to releasing the disk. You can see the old marks were it moved before and we didn't get much more release by moving the adj. bolts in fingers out. Time for a new pressure plate I think. Thanks for your help.
 
I have run into this before. If It came with an auborn clutch, you have to put one back in. You can't mix half of one or the other, it doesn't work.
 
The fingers will be in the area of 1/2" more toward the flywheel when a new disk is put into a worn out FW and PP. The Auburn original clutch (to my knowledge) was primarily heavier springs and beefier levers. But effectively there were few complaints on either. I have never heard of a replacement driven disk that would not work in either clutch, but it could be. As the clutch wears the free play goes away. Thus the adjustment is always looser (more free play) when it wears. If the T/O bearing or linkage starts to go, (or in a cable or hydraulic clutch, the cable stretches or fluid is low) the pedal free play gets bigger. If your clutch adjustment has 1" or so of freeplay, and when pushed to that spot the fingers are touching the T/O bearing, and from their it feels much stiffer, but still will not release, it is likely assembled incorrectly. JimN
 
Teddy You were right we ordered a new pressure plate and when we were looking at the differences we noticed three light marks on the back side of the original pressure plate. These were made from the dampener springs on the new disk hitting the outside cover of the pressure plate. Since we didn't lay the disks next to each other before turning it in for core we never noticed this. That is probably the differences between the two disks.Put the matched pair in worked great. Sometimes saving money is expensive!!!
 

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