I have a super A that is no joy to start cold, but impossible to start when warmed up. When cold I have to start with the throttle all the way back, then bump it up quickly. (Because of a bad starter I have to hand crank.) I have changed points, cleaned and regapped the plugs, and replaced the plug wires. Flooding doesn't seem to be a problem, and the carb (a Zenith) has been rebuilt recently. I'm thinking maybe coil?
- Thread starter DUNNDAN
- Start date
When the engine is warm it may be the condenser or coil when its hard to start. Check for fire to the plugs ASAP when it won't start warm. Put in a new condenser to see if that's the culprit.
If it still does it I would try a good coil, that may be why its hard to start cold too. Hal
If it still does it I would try a good coil, that may be why its hard to start cold too. Hal
GAfarmer16
Member
its the coil. mine had the same problem
GAfarmer16
Member
also make sure the next one u get has the internal resistor coil. it'll last longer
Janicholson
Well-known Member
6volt coils for farmall distributor applications do not have resistors. Is it a mag or distributor ignition? both have coils, both could be on the tractor. they are different, with different recommendations. JimN
Sorry. I forgot to put that it was distributor ignition until I changed over to 12 volt. It has a 12 volt coil. Thanks for all of your help. I have a new condesor and another new set of points. I'll try that first, then the coil if needed. What type of 12 volt coil should I specifically ask for?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
If you have a ballast resistor in it now, then the coil should be 12v for use with a ballast resistor. If it has no resistor now a coil designed for 12v no resistor required is best.
If hand cranked it makes no real difference.
Putting a choke cable and control near the front might be a positive addition. Shutting off fuel when it is hot can limit loading of extra fuel into the carb (which can cause hard starting) JimN
If hand cranked it makes no real difference.
Putting a choke cable and control near the front might be a positive addition. Shutting off fuel when it is hot can limit loading of extra fuel into the carb (which can cause hard starting) JimN
A thought: If your spark is OK hot or cold, could there be some kind of vapor lock? It is unusual in this kind of fuel system, I know.
It used to occur on a Wisconsin VE-4 we had years ago on a baler. You'd run it hard, stop for a break, and crank your lovin' backside off trying to get it to start. It occurred to me years later that a wet rag on the carb and fuel pipe might have stopped this. Happens a lot on airplanes with fuel injection. The heat coming off the top of the engine vaporizes the fuel in the injection pipes and it's hell to pay to get the thing to fire until it cools off. Just a thought, probably crazy in this situation.
It used to occur on a Wisconsin VE-4 we had years ago on a baler. You'd run it hard, stop for a break, and crank your lovin' backside off trying to get it to start. It occurred to me years later that a wet rag on the carb and fuel pipe might have stopped this. Happens a lot on airplanes with fuel injection. The heat coming off the top of the engine vaporizes the fuel in the injection pipes and it's hell to pay to get the thing to fire until it cools off. Just a thought, probably crazy in this situation.
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