A,AV,B,BN

Anonymous-0 · Jan 19, 2009

When looking up serial numbers I find that the A,AV,B,and BN numbers are all lumped together. The question is are there any group of numbers for each model or is the model letter the only way to determine correctness?

CNKS · Jan 19, 2009

No, the numbers are as they came off the production line. Engine and chassis serial match as long as the SN is 201000 or below and the seat frame that the serial number is on and the engine are original.

Dave H (MI) · Jan 20, 2009

Join the long list of people intent on driving themselves crazy trying to ascertain the "correctness" of an A, AV, B, BN. Truth is you will never know for sure. You can come very close to sure...but never 100%. These are old tractors and many had change outs on the engines and many more had change outs on the seats and other parts. I am not sure the term "correct" applies to tractors like it does with cars. Lots of modifications were made for special applications.

mkirsch · Jan 20, 2009

Dave, what flabbergasts me is the importance people put on a tractor being "correct."

Go to a car show, and everyone is ooohing and aahing over the latest CUSTOM ride with the blower and the flame job... The 1970 Chevelle with a straight 6 and three on the tree, lovingly restored to as-new condition doesn't get a second look.

Go to a tractor show, and if someone shows up with a nicely painted H with one bolt out of place, it's surrounded by an angry mob carrying pitchforks and torches!!! "It's not correct!" they chant in anger, "Death to the owner!"

Okay, it's not that extreme, but you get the idea.

CNKS · Jan 20, 2009

I might have misunderstood your question. You can make one out of the other of any of those tractors, simply by changing parts around. And since the serial tag is on the seat bracket, the seat bracket and/or the serial tag can also be changed. But, in addition to appearance, it is the serial PREFIX that determines the model, provided it is not switched. A is FAA, B is FAB, BN is FABN, AV is FAAV. There were also International ("industrial") versions of the A used by highway depts, etc. Prefix for that is IAA. So if you see a B with a wide front end, for example, the tag will say FAB if it indeed was a B. Further authenication can be determined from comparing the engine and chassis serial numbers, they were the same from 501-201000, provided it has the original engine. You can also check casting codes to see if they are close together (month day year), where year is usually a letter.

rrogers · Jan 20, 2009

No, there where different opptions that could have been on it but are no longer on it, unless you have the original pappers you"ll never know 100% what came on it. just do your best and see how it turns out, if people don"t like something on it that may be incorrect then they don"t have to buy it, or they can buy it and change it, if it drives them that crazzy. just have fun restoring it, i am restoring mine.

my A has a seat off of a H or M not shure but it more comfy and sits up higher i like it, i"m putting bigger tires on it and doing little things to make it stand out, but it"s going to be a work tractor

BOBM25 · Jan 20, 2009

I don't know about that. Sad part is I'm as much to blame as anyone. I'd never point it out however, because I know how difficult 100% original is to do. I still look for dot head bolts on restorations at shows. I know, I know, I'm terrible. It is neat to see though if you run across one. I've considered buying a metal lathe just to make those bolts....more than once!!!

A,AV,B,BN

Anonymous-0

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CNKS

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Dave H (MI)

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mkirsch

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CNKS

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rrogers

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BOBM25

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