Crankshaft verdict.

spiffy1

Member
After double checking it yesterday, both the rod and cap definitely would bind before moving 45degrees [b:958ea49c98]without even being assembled to the other[/b:958ea49c98].

Still not sure whether the two cranks came from opposing ends of factory tolerance, or the tractor that had the new rods had been ground a few thousandths; regardless, I doubt I could have cranked that tractor, even with 10shims each side - let alone much chance of wearing in without burning the babbit.

Sooooo; called a couple shops this moring; the one boiling out the block was at least a week leadtime and didn't have the right person to talk to anyway this morning. The conversation with the next shop went something like:

I said, “Can you guys do a quick dirty job dusting a thou or so from the high sides of a heavy old tractor crank; no need to bring it to a spec all around?” “ Don’t need to polish it either, only turns 1050 & I’ll clean it up with crocus before I put it in anyway.”

Phone, “Babbit?”

Me, “Yeppp”

Phone, “Ahhhh, you got an oval crank binding on you huh? [I'm not sure if he assumed I had a new babbit job, or I somehow indicated the salvage rods] The clearance sets with shims?”

Me, “That’s it”

Phone, “Bring it in - we’ll take a look; probably can sneak it in sometime early this week.”

That was enough for me to make a trip to town! He felt around the journals: "yeah, a few nasties on it [this thing threw chunks of babbit from #2 & #3 last time it ran; I hadn't mentioned that] - those should come out just fine though while bringing it back to round. Roller bearing ["ball bearing" I corrected, but still impressed a performance shop recognized these] mains; just need to do the rod journals...."

I was happy enough, only one question left: "Ballpark cost?"

"Around $100; just a little more if we polish it too."
Being real optimistic, I considered maybe half, but most likely a just a bit more than the $100, and equally possible to optimistic: pessimistic guess of over double, so I said "you may as well do the polish too."

So, I should have all the parts back by the end of the week! :D

Still going to have a few random pits, but no worries there; like "beauty marks" how about "lubrication reserviors?" :lol:

I know; I wound up doing exactly the opposite everyone suggested, but I really did appreciate all the replies [and had I been able to avoid binding with the shim stack, would have just hand polished it and used it "as is"]: Thanks everyone! 8)
 

If I could have clearanced .002 or .003 on the tight and .005 or .006 on the loose [instead of binding [likely -1 to +2 or so] like it was before; shims just can't cure that!], I would have probably done it that way; but, yeah, now I know it won't cause fits.

Another question on this everyone:

Did the 22-36 crankshafts get Tocco hardening? I didn't think that was until sometime in the 30's. Maybe when the governor went out; it heated the surfaces enough to create some hardening? If the latter, what are the chances the whole thing is crystalized (I doubt it; supposedly only ran wild for a minute) and just waiting to lug a little before it becomes 2 or 3 peices? :shock:

The shop said this thing was "HARD"; he ground McCormick Deering cranks before (not sure if 15-30 or 10-20 or whatever else though), so I'd suspect he'd remember if it was that hard. How deep was Tocco?
 

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