Loader Problems

I've got an older stan hoist loader on mY '45 M. It has always been higher (as you are looking at the front of the loader) on the left side and then slants down to the right. I bought a kind of home made snow/dirt blade this summer at an auction for a mear 15 dollars and made it fit the front of the tractor. The problem is that I can't get it leveled out. So I scrape the ground on one side and on the other I leave a lot of snow. Not fun. It's proabably off 2-3 inches total. I think I have one or all of the following 3 problems.

1. the loader frame could be tweaked but it doesn't look like it is.

2. The loader (both one way cylinders) are hooked up to the lift all system from the left foremost port. The hose runs from that port to a t on the right cylinder and then another hose runs from the t to the left cylinder. Would it be better for one cylinder to come from the foremost left port and the other cylinder the right port?

3. I think this is the most likely... I noticed tonight when lifting the loader frame it appears that only the right cylinder (while running the tractor) is doing all the lifting. The whole frame seems to tweak on that side when lifting. Is there a decent way to test the cylinders? I think the left one either doesn't work or isn't working well.


Any ideas? I'll try to get pics tomorrow.


T.C.

You are getting air into the cylinders. Common thing to happen with single acting loader cylinders. Take the ends loose from the loader, extend them with the hydraulics and push them back by hand a few times. The first couple times you will feel the air being bled out as you push the rams in. Repeat this until you don't feel any air. With both cylinders on one line you may need to unhook and plug the line from one cylinder and do them one at a time. This will only work for a while, then it has to be repeated. Not using the loader in float helps.

If you leave on cyl hooked up to the loader and pull one off only the one unhooked will move until it fully extends then the other will move.

Other than extreme fluidic systems, pressure is uniform in a closed hydraulic system. Thus there is very equal pressure on the cylinders. I am pretty sure it is tweeked in the members connecting the sides. Set the bucket on a wheel rim so the wheel is in the center of the back edge. Concrete or hard surface is important. This lets the loader relax as much as possible. with all the pressure off the hydraulic system, block the rear wheels to prevent rolling. Now remove the top of each cylinder. I would measure and carefully plan a method of heating the side to side member/s that are bent.
Placing an I bean sticking out about 10 feet from the frame in the very front of the low side chaining this to the frames, then jacking on the beam end might bend it back. Do it in stages. JimN

I have one of those old loaders and added a blade, just as you're describing. I run each cylinder from its own port, left to left, and right to right. And mine works great. I think Michael Price is right (if I understand his answer correctly). You're filling one cylinder, then the other. My loader is a little "racked" but it's not nearly enough to cause me any problems when I'm pushing snow.

Despite the apparent relationship of the hoses, there is no reality to the idea of one filling befor the other. A few pages back there is a posted diagram of the Liftall system. The pipes are connected together inside, and it makes no difference to which of the front two fittings are connected. (the left rear is a delay fitting) The connection with a "T" near one cylinder will not make it go up sooner than the other. Pressures are always the same in a closed system. If you put a longer hose on the right cylinder to make the hose length equal, or attached the left cyl to the front left port, it will be exactly the same. Guaranteed. JimN

I agree with that. Just thought i'd throw that out. The right one definitely is doing all or most of the lifting though.


T.C.

I have the same problem with my H. Have mounted a Dual with one way cylinders, a Schwartz 1100 and a Stan Hoist both with 2 way cylinders and all of them have the low side. I have been able to reduce the lean by adjusting the air pressure in the tires to compensate. Increase the low side and decrease the high side. With the Stan Hoist, I also noticed that the loader would twist while lifting. It's made of tubular steel and kinda arched in design. Also seemed like one side would start up before the other but one cylinder was going bad due to being broken at the rod seal retainer. Believe it would twist toward the bad cylinder, which was on the right side viewed from the seat.

Here are some pics of my setup. Curt, On your stan hoist you are describing exactly what I'm seeing. except yours was twisting in the opposite direction of mine. I tried the tire thing today but it didn't help much. I did measure and the one side is approx 1-5 - 2 inches different from the other side.

When it's warmer this spring I'll try to blead the the system. Hopefully that helps but we'll see. I know the "good" cylinder is leaking a bit, not a whole lot so I may have them rebuilt this spring as well.

T.C.

Could it be the Hydraulic cylinder on one side might be bent, causing it to stick? Just a thought.One way to check is to remove the cylinder and use air pressure to expand and retract( if double acting),but be careful not to get sprayed by oil coming out of the cylinder holes, or even switch right and left cylinder on the tractor.