super a 123

Mark W.

Member
Finally have an engine for my 1950 super a, a 123 out of a 140. Do
any of you know know what I will need to change other than maybe
the grill and radiator.
 
Depends what you're trying to do.

If you're thinking that you need the taller radiator and grille to run the 123, you'll also need to find a pair of taller supports for the rear of your gas tank and maybe a new fuel line and fan and/or generator belts.

My own thinking is that you don't need to do that to run a 123. The piston and sleeve kits for 113s are commonly overbore to 3-1/8", effectively making 123s out of them, and they run just fine with the thermosiphon 113 cooling system with its shorter radiator. In that case, to use your existing radiator and grille, you only need to salvage the cooling outlet/fan support from your old 113 to have a straight line for the hose to the radiator. That won't have provision for a thermostat, so it's your choice whether you want to keep the water pump from your 123 or swap the cooling inlet from the 113 in. too. They run fine with or without the pump, but those motors warm up slow enough with just the thermosiphon, that a waterpump with no thermostat will only make that worse.

It's your tractor, and you won't hurt it any with the taller radiator, but you already have the parts in hand (I'm assuming you still have the 113) to have her up and running. I'd go that route. If, down the road, it isnt' working for you, you can upgrade the radiator, grille and other parts, but I'd think you'd have to really work the livin' bejeezus out of it for the old cooling system to be inadequate.

Just my $0.02.
 
As long as you don't have a thermostat at the top, that's right, you don't need a water pump. You can keep it, but your engine will take a LOT longer to warm up.

The radiator and fan on either of these motors (113/123) are so outsized as to be very efficient just as thermosiphon systems, as long as your radiator is clean. One thing I often mention to illustrate that is the sound they make from a distance. From the house on the farm, we rarely heard the exhaust on the BN when they were out cultivatin', apart from the occaional belch when the governor throttled things up goin' into a hard spot. But you could always hear the roar/howl of the fan. The H was the same way.

Also, once you get it running, you can do a little test with the grille still off. Drive it, run it, warm it up well, until the top of your radiator is too hot to rest your hand on. Then move your hand to the bottom of the radiator. You should find it quite comfortable to rest your hand on, almost cool to the touch. It works that well.
 
Seems like there was a change in water pump mounting location during production. Early ones had a down low left side mount like 100, 130 etc and the late ones had a top center mount. Need to ckeck this out before $$$$$. If Hugh sees this, he will know.
 
Mark: The 140 block is not drilled to accept the Farmall A fan. 140 has a fan hub water pump, fan is not same position as SA, thus shroud has to be modified. I don't think you can run a 140 block without that fan hub water pump. There are no 3" bore sleeves for 140 engine, in fact there are not 3" bore sleeves for 130 engine.

Personally if I were looking for a block or complete engine for your tractor I'd look for block part number 251069 R1 or R2 or block 354898 R1 or R2. Your 1950 SA if original should be equipped with 251069 R1 block, those sleeves and pistons will not fit block 354898 R1 or R2.

You can buy 3" or 3-1/8" sleeves for block 251069, 3", 3-1/8" and 3-1/4" sleeves for block 354898. The 130 with block 366204 and 140 with block 367825 only have 3-1/8" bore sleeves available.

Your Super A was not C-123 from factory as some suggest. All Super A up to serial number 356001 were C-113 from factory. After that only 1,957 were built and they were called Super A1. Don't confuse 1 with I.
 

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