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O/T Car Charging issues.

B

Brian2

Member
Well, here's hoping my car is as easy as a tractor. Wife called, said her 99 Suzuki Esteem wouldn't start. She said the radio has been acting up the past few days and today finally wouldn't start. So I went to get her in my car, I suspect alternator so I took my volt meter. The car's lights still worked, and when I tried, it would barely turn over and not start. So....voltage on battery just sitting was 11.6, once I jumped started it, and it was idling it was only around 11.8. When I reved it, it did get up to about 12.7. If this were a tractor, I would say it's not charging, and the genny wasn't working. However, after talking to the guy at the parts store, he suggested it might be the battery. The battery was about 3 years old ( I replaced it), so I figured it would be cheaper to replace then spend the money to have a mechanic tell me it needs a battery. So should a car such as this show more then 12.7 volts if charging? My car, which is a grand marquis shows 14.6 when idling.

Thanks for any help.
 
If the battery is bad yes it could show a low charge on a meter. Say one of the cells is shorted so then the alternator could not put out enough to work as it should. Easy test would be to put a different battery in it and then check it. Say maybe the battery out of your car. If with a different battery you still get the 12.7 yep alternator isn't cutting it
Hobby farm
 
My Money Says Alternator..At 2000 rpm yours should be cranking out 14V.or better constant.Take it out and take it to the parts House,most of them have testers in House....
 
I agree with Old, It might be as simple as a tightened fan belt. A discharged battery will not charge full voltage for about 20 minutes, so check it then. Battery load test would be a good idea if the belt is tight. JimN
 
Thanks for you replies all, tomorrow I will see what the new battery is doing for the voltage, after getting the new battery in tonight, it was too cold to work anymore on it. I will keep you posted. One other thing that the guy at the parts store said was that 'generally' if the alt. light doesn't come on, it usually isn't the alternator.

Best regard.
Brian.
 
Brian - ALL 12 volt systems will show 14 - 14.75 volts whenever the battery is being charged. Your reading of 12.7 says your wife's Esteem's charging system has a chronic "low output" problem.

The most likely the cause is a weak (failing) alternator. To verify, any parts store can test your alternator free of charge.
 
(quoted from post at 22:36:22 01/11/09)One other thing that the guy at the parts store said was that 'generally' if the alt. light doesn't come on, it usually isn't the alternator.
Click to expand...
Ummmm.....not always! Many (most?) systems will extinguish the warning light whenever the alternator voltage exceeds battery voltage - NOT just when the alternator provides voltage adequate to charge the battery. Pretty much means that as long as the alternator is spinning and producing output - no matter how meager - the light will go out.

Trust your voltmeter!!
 
I just fought this one and won today. I have has what I thought was low charge voltage for about 2 years on my 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4. I had it tested on vehicle in the past and was told it was ok... All 13.2 V on a 105 Amp alternator. It would get hot to the touch in minutes after cranking and after about a day of rest would have 12.0 - 11.8 volts. This is on a 1080 CCA Exide Brand, Optima Red Top Clone.

Rebuilt alternator $149.99, $45.00 core. New alternator $179.99, $5.00 core... Who is getting screwed here? I got the new for $201 w/ tax and plan to put the used one on EBAY. I'll grt more than $5.00, but maybe less than $45.00. It is worth something, I just do not have time to change brushes and VR. Bearings were good.

Fired it up, instantly 14.7 volts, tapered to 14.3 volts and hung there regardless of RPM. No more battery light every morning. It had left me in the cold several times. Would charge JUST enough to last a day or two. Go away on a 4 day weekend and I'd be driving the 1979 3/4 ton to work.

I bet you $10.00 its the alternator.

Charles
 
On any charging issue do not forget to verify ground straps. Find out where they are and verify condition and connection. I learned the hard way thirty years ago a $4 corroded ground strap can mimic a weak alternator. Or you can do like most, pull the alternator, test it, find out its good, scratch your head, and THEN check your grounds.
 
I'm with everyone on the alt. Do several things and all are free. 1. take battery and alt into a napa, autozone, adavanced etc. They will all test them for free, sometimes even on the car. They will tell you straight. Everytime I've had a bad alt I see less than 13.5 volts. Bad battery showed 13.5 volts or above.


T.C.
 
I'd vote for the alternator. Had a subaru one time with an intermittant bad diode in the altnator. Worked sometimes and sometimes it wouldn't, particularly at night. Every time Autozone checked it, it wasn't acting up and was ok. Finally replaced it and no more problems.
 
It should be around 14.5 volts when charging. It's probably the alternator. If you have a shop that repairs generators and alternators can probably check it for you. You may be able to get a rebuilt alternator from a place like Auto Zone that offers a lifetime warranty on a rebuilt alternator. An easy way to check the condition of your battery is to use a hydrometer and check the specific gravity of each battery cell. Should be in the 1.260 range. If they read somewhat lower and all are close in the readings
means its not being charged. If one cell reads 1.100 then you have a dead cell and the battery needs replacing. Hal
 
You're right, Bob. I've had alternators go bad without the warning light ever coming on. And I also drove a car for three years with the light on, and the battery never discharged. Idiot light? Maybe the light's the idiot! :)

As a wise man once said, "trust your voltmeter."
 
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