Pullin' the Pully......Super A

Anonymous-0 · Jan 11, 2009

Here is the set up I used on the SA and SC engines, I can't say how good this one works, these were the first Farmall pullies I've pulled, these were very easy. I had some 1/2 scrap plate, I cut a slot to get behind the pully, dogged down the all thread pullin' the end peice against the PortaPower, pulley groaned a time or two tryin' to hold on and gave up. You will notice I used a 3/4" bolt between the end of the crank and the PortaPower ram. The 3/4" bolt is a good slip fit in the pully, Hole in the end of the crank is 1/2" N C threads, hole is recessed so it would be hard to damage the threads.

I understand there is some concern usein' bolts at the front of the engine to pull the pully back on because of the pressure on the crank and thrust bearin'...I intend to cut a 1/2 " plate that will fit the rear of the engine, blow holes that match the rear of the block holes, with a hole for the dial pin on the end of the crank, bolt this plate hard against the rear end of the crankshaft, this should not let the crank move rearward.

Thanks,
Wild Bill

Janicholson · Jan 11, 2009

Polish the shaft, polish the inside of the pulley, and make a less intense fit, then pushnit on with progressively shorter bolts. No issue. JimN

bc · Jan 11, 2009

Bill, when it goes back together, you are probably going to clean up the shaft and pulley with some sandpaper. Then stick the pulley in the oven at over 500 degrees for an hour or so and it may just slide right on. Or heat it up with a rosebud. You can freeze the shaft also.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 11, 2009

bc..... I know what You advise will work, around No. La. in the old days it was called a shrink fit, I've done bearin's and sleeves like that many times....also have had a few get almost where they needed to be ,....then stop....tighter than "HELL" and a half twist more.

Jim....I agree with cleanin up and polishin', I'll use a squirt of Kroil, build the plate to hold the crank forward and use a bolt in the crank.....nothing like overdoin' it

Wild Bill

P and R Pete · Jan 11, 2009

I had my crankshaft cleaned by a machine shop when they checked for cracks and ground the journals, and the pulley cleaned before a small crack was welded. That, and heating the pulley to 200 degrees, (didn"t want to go hotter, afraid of ruining the new seal) and as Mr. Nicholson said, it went on real easy.
Don"t forget the key.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 12, 2009

So what will the heat do to a new seal.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 12, 2009

Gene....I would be wary of heatin' the pully to the temp it needs to be heated to to expand enough to make goin' on easy.....If anyone doubts this get a micrometer, heat a pully up, see how much it expands at what temp.

Wild Bill

Anonymous-0 · Jan 13, 2009

Ihave had lots of experience of press fitting but in this case the heat wont do the new seal any good. Your dealer should be able to get a seal that has Viton for the rubber and it is good to around 300. I would press the pulley on. I made a bracket sort of to use a hy jack and press them on. It wont hurt to heat the pulley to around 200. I do polish the pulley and shaft good and of course a coating of oil on both.Some do have a tighter fit than others as we are talking about a thousand or so. Putting some ice on the shaft wont hurt a bit as metal expands something like 6 to the 7th power per inch per degree. I used to fit dies for extruding lead and aluminum making tubes for toothpast and other products.

mattofvinings · Jan 13, 2009

(quoted from post at 12:31:36 01/12/09) So what will the heat do to a new seal.

The 200F mentioned is a normal engine temp.

300F oil sump would be near meltdown but it should still survive.

I would personally not hesitate to use 200-300F...the pulley will cool some by the time you get it from the oven and positioned/ready to press.

IMHO a person is cheating themselves by purposefully loosening the fit of the crank pulley on any engine as I personally believe they were designed to be tight. While the engine rotation appears smooth it is jagged as can be from a torque impulse standpoint.

Also consider the cost of having a pulley get "loose" and start knocking around into the key....which wallers the keyway by the time it is discovered...which means get a new crankshaft and do a major engine teardown. Not worth it in my opinion.

spiffy1 · Jan 13, 2009

(quoted from post at 04:04:03 01/13/09) Putting some ice on the shaft wont hurt a bit as metal expands something like 6 to the 7th power per inch per degree.

Not quite an exponential power, but the linear expansion would be roughly .000006inch per inch size for every degree F. Area around .000012/square inch/degreeF. Alway wise to double check my math though! :lol:

Small numbers no doubt, but [note math disclaimer!] a 1.5" shaft will be .001 larger with 100degrees F increase in temp; enough to go from a press fit to a slip fit! Cooling the shaft and doing 200 on the pulley, probably gets you to 150 difference, better yet!

A parallel question I have: anyone use anti-seize on press fits? It seems like an oxymoron, but I've found grease [pretty crusty after 70-80 years!] often enough under press fits, and wondered it anti-seize would be good for both assembly and [if I ever need to :shock: ] disassembly without affecting the fit (I don't see why it should hurt a good fit, but never tried it).

Pullin' the Pully......Super A

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