rust stuck engine

rrogers · Jan 10, 2009

ok my method isn't working this time, does anyone know an esay way to get the pistons un-stuck. 3 out of 4 of the pistons are rusted up pretty goodon my A(note i don't want to remove the sleves).

CNKS · Jan 10, 2009

If they are rusted that bad, you may have to. Likely the rust has done enough damage to make them unusable. You have wet sleeves, which should be easier to remove than dry ones, but I have never tried it. Otherwise, probably the majority of people on this site will vote for ATF, some like PB Blaster.

Oldiron29 · Jan 10, 2009

rrogers, I have soaked stuck motors with PB blaster and had luck. After soaking about a month
Tap pistons with wood block and rock tractor back and forth in high gear. I have gotten them loose than cleaned cyclinders with emery and wire brush blow out all grit clean and oil.
Oldiron29

Anonymous-0 · Jan 10, 2009

dont know about the easy part or your method but i would get some hard wood to fit the bore and givem a smack with a 10 lb. hammer or bigger. i like to clean the rust out from above piston so it dont get hung up when pushing them out.make sure to have something wet in there. A T fluid will be mentioned.

rustyfarmall · Jan 10, 2009

If the pistons are stuck that bad, they are beyond salvage, and so are the sleeves. Just remove the whole assembly, and then peel the sleeve away from the piston so you can get the piston off the rod.

rrogers · Jan 10, 2009

click on the link and you'll see a pic of what they look like.

-Randy-
rusted cylinder

old · Jan 10, 2009

If they are rusted up bad enough that ATF will not unstick them then the sleeves and rings will be gone and maybe even the pistons. One like that you have to bite the bullet and just replace it all or it will never run like it should and will burn more oil the gas. BTDT many times but have been very lucky on most of the one I get in that are locked up but not on all of them
Hobby farm

rustyfarmall · Jan 10, 2009

Yep, give it up and buy a new sleeve and piston set.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 10, 2009

its toast and will need to come out as one unit, as rusty said.may have to remove crank.

GordoSD · Jan 10, 2009

To confirm the others, those pistons and sleeves are toast. Don't even think about saving them. Bang the pistons and sleeves out as a unit and discard after salvaging the rods and maybe, but I doubt it, the pins.

Gordo

Andy Motteberg · Jan 10, 2009

Use PB Blaster.

rrogers · Jan 10, 2009

thanks everyone i'm going to tear down the engine tomaro. i'll take pics and show what i find in this thing.

El Toro · Jan 10, 2009

You can drive them out from the bottom using a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer. The sleeves aren't pressed into that block. I pulled the engine on the A I had that was stuck so you don't need to lay under the tractor. The block probably needs cleaning too. Hal

jimmy77 · Jan 10, 2009

TRY VINIGER IT HAS WORKED FOR ME.

John A. · Jan 10, 2009

rrogers, Here goes, follow my instructions....
1 remove all tinwork, gas tank, intake/exhaust, and head, pan and oil pump, and rod caps.
2 roll tractor outside, remove all flammable materials. be sure you are not too close to shead roof or anything flammable.
3 into the cylinder pour Diesel with a splash of gas, set mixture on fire. Go get a cup of coffee...., let fire burn itself out, now drive out piston from the bottom.
Note if the volume of this cylinder is some what small compared to the rest it may take 2, 3, 4, or more times to get the cylinder to expand enough to get the piston to turn loose.
Hope this helps.
Later,
John A,

rrogers · Jan 11, 2009

tryed it no facial hair left (just kidding).but thats the best one iv'e heard yet. tanks, i'll give it a try. it sounds fun.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 11, 2009

You maybe dont want to remove the sleeves but if the piston is stuch the sleeve aint any good so remove the sleeves and pistons then you can press out the pistons and go from there but im willing to bet they arent good enough to use or they wouldnt be stuck now. So save ya money and pull them out now.then you can start on the rebuild.

Mike Farmer · Jan 11, 2009

Remove head and sump/pan. Undo conrod bearings so the bottom end is loose. Soak for as long as you like. Then using a FBH and a block of 2x2 HARD wood start to drive them down ward. This way you wont move the sleeves. But you must be careful not to drive them so far the the bottom ring goes past the sleeve end. Until you get to this point you cant tell how many pistons are actually stuck or to what degree. Even with a certain amount of pitting in the sleeves the worst is you burn a drop of oil until the pits coke up.(obviously not if the pits are serious) Good luck. MTF

TomA in CA · Jan 11, 2009

Kroil is the oil.

Also I have had luck setting a chunk of dry ice on each piston to shrink them.

Tom

mkirsch · Jan 11, 2009

Have any of you guys looked at the picture?

The pistons and sleeves are TOAST. No magic cocktail or pyrotechnic display is going to free them up to where they'll be usable again.

Charles E. McNelly III · Jan 11, 2009

Hi Mike,
I too have and use the tool named "FBH". I pretty much drove the pistons out, along with the bottom half of the liners as well.
Charles

John A. · Jan 11, 2009

rrogers, Sorry I am late to get back to you. Just be safe, use all precautions. everyone including myself who have used this technique love it In most cases the pistons and liners can be salvaged unless the corrosion and pitting is too great! Let me know how it turns out, Good luck, Have fun.
Later,
John A.
PS, Some guys I know have started on the engines that have been stuck for many yrs and gotten them freed up and apart in one weekend, or less!

rrogers · Jan 11, 2009

but i'm going to try one other trick that i have use before, that i forgot about. it's a little safer. it's called oxalic acid, eats rust but leaves paint and metal alone the stuff works great on all kinds of stuff.

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