Engine Hoist

Do you think this will be suitable for removing final drives out of my Farmall 130?
Those suckers look a might heavy to handle by hand. I did an International Cub Loboy finals and they were as much as a man could handle.

the 130 weighs about 1070 pounds more than the low boy. (130 weighs 2650, low boy weighs 1580) so you may need a little extra with this one.(these weights are according to guy fays data book so they may very a little)


-Randy-

That's what I used.

This is on my BN, and the bull gears were out when I lifted, but that hoist in your pic (it looks like probably a two-ton, same as mine) has plenty of capacity for the lift, even with the bull gear in.

Two sturdy people could handle it by hand, one to lift, one to steer things and help lift, but the hoist is handy for keeping things steady while you line them up.

Scotty,
Thanks for the reply and pic. I am finding that this machine is alot heftier to handle that the cubs for sure. Alot of blocking and re-blocking. How did you find the job? I mean, did you replace the seals and bearings on the BN? Looks like you added the long axle on the left? I think one of the big challenges will be getting the bearings in and out as I have no press or pullers. Probably have to bring them in somewhere for that. My main reason for teardown is to get at the oiler gear in the tranny which is broken and locking up the tractor.

You're welcome.

The long left shaft is standard on the BN ( same length as the right side of the A, but 4" shorter on both sides than on the B). Your 130 is descended from the A, which had the left final drive bolted right up to the tranny/diff.

I was working alone, but it wasn't a bad job at all. As far as the bearings, they're not hard. I'd have to dig out the parts catalog (my memory is a little vague) but most of the bearings are ball bearings that may require a little help from a punch or drift on the backside, but will come right out. Clean up their seats and they'll go right back in. The only one that gave me any trouble (and the only bearing on the tractor I didn't replace), and I still don't have it resolved on my BN, is the bearing on the left side where the shaft passes into the tranny. It rides in the inside of a cage that is bolted to the tranny, with shims between the cage and the side of the tranny to adjust the mesh on the differential. The cage is bolted on with three bolts, and should slide out. The one on the right came out and went back in with no problem. The one on the left, there's something else going on, and it binds not long after starting to come out, and no amount of wobbling, prying, swearing or prayer has been able to get it off. I've applied as much leverage as I think I dare without breaking it but, as I said, there's something else going on there that I just haven't figured out yet. I have the bearing and seals on the shelf waiting for a light to come on. That said, you shouldn't need anything exotic to get your bearings out and back in yourself.

Seals -- same deal. Many of them can be driven out from the backside like the bearings. For those that can't, a simple seal puller (a flat handle with two hooks on the end of different lengths that would remind you of very narrow hammer claws) can be had from Sears or other places for ten or fifteen bucks. The only caution on new seals is that their shells aren't as deep as the originals, and most places you'll want to drive in two of them, one over the other. As far as installing/driving in the new seals, you can buy a kit of bearing race and seal drivers for $30 or so at AutoZone, NAPA .... They're basically aluminum discs, flat on one face, and a tapered, flat-top step on the other. The kit includes a handle that can be screwed onto the discs for driving purposes. For seals, the concept is to start the seal by hand, then drive it flush with the flat face of one of the discs that has a circumference larger than the hole the seal is going into. The stepped side of the discs are used to drive bearing races (like those in the front wheels), but can also be used to drive smaller seals, or for driving the first seal below flush in the places that you need to put a second one on top of the first.

HTH! Please let us know how you're making out.

Unlike the Cub, the final drive bearings on the 130 are not pressed in. Once you get things loose, they will come out easily. That oil slinger gear is a pain. Everything has to come out of the rear end to replace it.

Scotty,
Thanks again.
I like the sounds of easy coming out for the bearings. At present, I just came in from removing the deck, and final pans, brake levers (the inside one is frozen on the shaft, but that's normal in my experience with Cubs) I'm going to borrow a hoist this afternoon, until I can buy my own as I will be taking my time on this project. The 130 is mechanically sound. Engine was redone a ways back. I'm not that far from getting the tranny off. My only concern is propping up the middle of the tractor so it doesn't fall over! I have a really good original parts book found on Ebay it's a very good find at $20.
I imagine the bearing and seals for the axle coming out of the finals is going to be a hefty price, as I paid $103Cdn for the Cub ones ea.
I'll be taking some pics too this aft.

I always look forward to pictures on projects like yours, so will be watching! Link below is to the remnants of a site I once had going. For different reasons, it's no longer complete . . . but if you follow the Odds and Ends to the Tractor Doings links, it will go through the early part of restoring my BN. I've got to get around to filling out the site with the rest of the job on the BN and fixing the links . . . one of these days.

As far as keeping the front of your tractor off the floor . . . those wide fronts will twist right out from under (PLEASE don't ask how I learned that or what it cost me!), and that can get all the more complicated with the offset of the 130, but you may already know that from your work on Cubs. So first thing I'd suggest is putting a jackstand under each side of your front end.

There's a jackpoint under the tranny. If you can do the work you want without pulling the tranny, that point should work fine. If the tranny has to come off, what I'd suggest is fashioning a piece of wood with just enough notch in it to keep things from rolling to make a cradle to support the torque tube. This could be a 4x4 or a 6x6 that could be centered to rest on the wide pad atop a railroad or house jack, or could be a 2x10 with jack stands on either side of the notch. All depends on where you have to split the tractor.

Price on the bearings sounds a little severe, but it's been a while since I went looking for them, so that may be the case by now. Ouch!

Thanks for getting back. I'll look forwqrd to pics.
My site

(quoted from post at 07:03:57 01/09/09) Do you think this will be suitable for removing final drives out of my Farmall 130?
Those suckers look a might heavy to handle by hand. I did an International Cub Loboy finals and they were as much as a man could handle.

Click to expand...

I have one, really handy. I have a chain rig, 3 equal lengths, with hooks attached to a ring, all proof stuff. I have even used it to pulll liner out of blocks.

Scotty,
You make it sound so easy!
I am inspired by your rebuild of the BN. After doing an '49A, '49Cub, & a '67Loboy, I said I would not open another one. Then this 130 came along. How could I pass that one up. I purchased it just over 2 years ago. My wife was terminally ill and wanted me to get something to do when she was gone. She went home in Feb' 07 and I just now finally getting around to digging into it. Been sitting in the shop all that time calling me to come have a look see. Like the other projects, I expect this one will be on the floor for at least another year, but hopefully sooner. It's always amazed me how much you can get done when you start turning wrenches. Great looking site too by the way.

Here's the 130.

The SuperSport model with the two-tone paint job, eh?