Farmall M running poorly

Hi- I have a Farmall M that had the engine recently overhauled last summer. After the rebuild the tractor started easily and ran fine but had never been timed. A few months ago I took the tractor to the local farmall mechanic who timed it and put it on the dyno. I drove the tractor home and parked it in the garage for the winter.
Last week I went out to start it for the first time since then and it didn't want to start but finally did after several attempts. It would only start with the throttle down at an idle and ran very slow and rough when started. It took several minutes of this before the tractor would take any more throttle and it still would spit and sputter when opened up. It would also backfire out the exhaust and was dripping gas from the carb. Flooded I think from all the cranking.
I have cleaned the carb, the cap, wires, plugs and electronic ignition are all new. The valves have not been readjusted since the rebuild. Could the valves be causing this problem or could it be something with the timing? Does it sound like a fuel issue or maybe spark?
This is my first tractor so I don't know much about these but am learing as I go. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks,
Cory

First change the fuel. Put the fuel in your car a few gallons at a time and put in fresh. Summer fuel in the winter is not the best. Second change the plugs, Save the old ones if they are newish. The fresh plugs and fuel will make it operate well. This assumes you pulled the distributor cap off and made sure there was no moisture in it, and tat the points are clean and set right. Keep us informed. JimN

First change the fuel. Put the fuel in your car a few gallons at a time and put in fresh. Summer fuel in the winter is not the best. Second change the plugs, Save the old ones if they are newish. The fresh plugs and fuel will make it operate well. This assumes you pulled the distributor cap off and made sure there was no moisture in it, and tat the points are clean and set right. Keep us informed. JimN

I dunno,

My old M pulled that stunt back when it was so darned cold.

Had to choke it to get it started and it wouldn't run right for two weeks since. Finally changed out a plug that I couldn't see a thing wrong with.

Runs fine now.

Allan

Hey CSK,
If the tractor started easily and ran well before your "mechanic" timed it, I would seriously suspect his work. If he timed while on the dyno, that definitely would be suspect.

if changing the fuel and plugs don't help, try getting it started again and play with the set screws a little on the carb, i had a few tractors do that

-Randy-

CSK I had a problem with one of my H's like you describe,the screw that holds the choke plate to the shaft was sheared off letting the plate flop around.Like to drove me nuts for awhile,never have found the missing screw,been about two years ago since I fixed it,no more problems. Ed

Your tractor does not have an automatic choke like your wifes car. When you open the throttle, vacuum drops and you have to compensate by pulling out the choke a little (this is when the engine is cold, you shouldn't need to use the choke once it's warmed up properly) A man that is used to his pickup or diesel tractor will always let the tractor die before he thinks of the choke. Also every tractor is different as to how much choke you need to use to get it started. You learn this by trial and error. Black smoke and coughing at startup is a sign of plenty much fuel. But if it just dies it is probably starved. If you choke it enough to get the plugs wet it might miss for a while or not even start. If you go off and leave it a while it might try again later.

FarmallEd, that screw is firmly embedded into the top of one of the pistons. Don't worry about it.

Yep, for sure.

That's why they are made out of soft brass. Happens all the time. :>)

Allan

Nextime you get it fired up and warm, go back and recheck all your head bolt torques, recheck the valve lash, and tighten up the manifold bolts. its possible, if you find head nuts loose, then the head gasket is not crushed down to where it needs to be. The gasket grows and shrinks with heating and cooling, sometimes, more than one session of retorquing the bolts are required. The symptoms can be exactly as you described. If this is the case,there is no way anything is in tune. Hope this helps, Chad

Thank you to all that replied as I got the tractor running again this evening! I drained the gas and added fresh, cleaned the plugs as well as the carb and sediment bowl. I then set the screws on the carb according to a post I read on here- main jet out 2 1/2 turns and idle mixture out 1 1/2 turns. The tractor started after some cranking and it had gas running out the carb before it fired up. It runs okay but sometimes when the throttle is opened quickly it will pop and put a little fire out the exhaust. I don't know much about adjusting them so was wondering if anyone had any advice on where to go from here?
I still plan to retorque the head bolts and set the valve lash. Thanks to all who replied- the help was greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Cory