Dupont Primer

IIRC correctly, I posted a similiar question in Paint a while back, but I can't remember the answers or find the thread right now, so may as well add to the threads here. :lol:

Anyone know of a good primer for Dupont Centuri or Imron that doesn't need to be sanded and recoated if it completely cures [i.e. weeks or more] before top coat? The reasoning is apply the primer over everthing while still apart and then topcoat when it's all together.

Of course, there's probably a better way. The only reasoning on the Dupont lines is that I know I can get the mix recipe McCormick Deering Gray. For all I know though, enamal (however, I know this just doesn't hold up as well) may be the final choice and Fordson House stocks that premixed.

491-35 or 491-16 look like good choices for durability ect., yet I don't think meet the above criteria. A few other ones looked really tough too, but even more resistant to the topcoat adhering if applied after a narrow window.

Any advice on products or procedures?

Go to the paint and bodywork forum. We just hashed this whole epoxy primer thing to death there.

Gordo

When I did some Standardtwin garden tractors back in the 1970's I took the steel wheels to work where they had a wheelabrator that turned the wheel on a metal table and hit the wheel with lead shot. They would shoot the bare wheels with acid primer. They gave me some to use since they said it had to be used right away and I painted some wheel weights for my garden tractor.
I never used a top coat on the wheel weights and after over 30 years they still good and the color was blue. It dries very fast and its hard to remove too. I use expoxy primer and I paint over it with Martin Senour's Primeez surfacer. You can lightly sand this on areas that are smooth
and are exposed before applying your finish coats. Hal

(quoted from post at 18:59:43 01/08/09) Go to the paint and bodywork forum. We just hashed this whole epoxy primer thing to death there.

Gordo

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Thanks, I'll check it out! Never did get around to checking for left over deer tags, but probably a good thing as if I put that in front of the HoneyDo list..... :shock:

(quoted from post at 19:24:36 01/08/09) You can lightly sand this on areas that are smooth and are exposed before applying your finish coats. Hal

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A surfacer before the top coat; I was hoping I could be lazier than that [of course, still a good chance someone else painting this one anyway; I really don't like my set up here [either garage layout or compressor power] for painting], but lazy and good paint don't exactly go well together anyway! :lol:

I'm not sure how the ingredients in stuff you used on those weights compares to what's available these days, but I know some of that epoxy primer sure is tough!

If you are using DuPont paint, go to their website and follow their instructions. There is no reason to experiment. You really shouldn't primer disassembled and then topcoat when assembled. There will be areas that don't get topcoated because you will be topcoating at weird angles and simply will not be able to cover the primer completely without getting runs in your topcoat. There are no shortcuts if you want a good job. As Gordo said, epoxy primer is usually the way to go. But, you don't want to use it if it goes against DuPonts instructions for the particular paint you are using. You shouldn't try mixing brands of paint.

(quoted from post at 20:20:44 01/08/09) If you are using DuPont paint, go to their website and follow their instructions. There is no reason to experiment. You really shouldn't primer disassembled and then topcoat when assembled. There will be areas that don't get topcoated because you will be topcoating at weird angles and simply will not be able to cover the primer completely without getting runs in your topcoat. There are no shortcuts if you want a good job. As Gordo said, epoxy primer is usually the way to go. But, you don't want to use it if it goes against DuPonts instructions for the particular paint you are using. You shouldn't try mixing brands of paint.

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Now I know why I don't read the paint section more often: information overload! :lol: If it weren't for the fact the paint codes are availabe for Dupont, I'd blow a few cobwebs off my head [and some empty cans I saved for that exact purpose] and go PPG epoxy; regardless though, all the primers I looked at from Dupont are compatible with any of the topcoats noted here.

As far as covering the tight spots with topcoat; wouldn't it be more correct not to [though a couple features will be correct for nostalgia rather than factory anyway: rubber cutoffs, straps instead of curtains, and a farm mounted throttle for the P300 governor]? I presume these were painted fully assembled, not?

As to why I was thinking primer disassembled inspite of that though was preventing rust from getting in places I'd rather it didn't (a perfect example that comes to mind is between the fuel&water tanks and the support pan).

You need to use a supplied air system when spraying that paint with hardener's. Hal

I buy Rustoleum from Wal-mart in gloss black and add a little white. I don't mess with primer.

(quoted from post at 09:32:28 01/09/09) You need to use a supplied air system when spraying that paint with hardener's. Hal

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Last time I sprayed anything nastier than enamal, it was in a wide open machine shed and I had some pretty good chemical filters in the mask - and I still wished I had supplied air instead! Yep, thats another huge strike against the paint going on here instead of in town.

(quoted from post at 09:39:39 01/09/09) I buy Rustoleum from Wal-mart in gloss black and add a little white. I don't mess with primer.

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Quite a few things around here are wearing Rustoleum and it has done well (outdoors like bin augers ect., maybe 5years, but much better on things that get to be inside). But with the look of some of the enamal I put on tractors 10-15 years ago [yes likely plenty of user error there too!], and the durability I've seen out of the urethanes, I'm just hesitant to put enamal on a tractor.

I prefer to do a better job than IH did. If you must primer everything first and then topcoat, get an epoxy primer that is close to the gray color. BUT, I prefer to use a contrasting color of primer, so I can see the places I miss -- and I guarantee you there will be missed places. As far as preventing rust in the hidden places, epoxy is the ONLY primer that is waterproof, so if that is your purpose, you must use epoxy. I was going to mention something else, but my brain died.