Putting hard rubber over steel wheels - picture

Dave Koenigsfeld · Jan 5, 2009

I found this picture in a restoration book. I would like to add this ring of over OVER my steel wheel cleats. I like the look of the cleats and do not want to remove them from my steel wheels. I would install this on my McCormick-Deering 10-20.

From the picture, it looks like they have bolted a steel bracket to the wheel in the gap between each cleat and bolted the rubber to this bracket.

The rubber rim looks too uniform to just be rubber. Is the rubber bolted to another piece of steel that circles the wheel? Where would you get this flat type of rubber without tread? Would a retread shop sell you strips of rubber?

I have a welder that can fabricate almost anything that I need but I need to find all of the pieces for him.
Any info or ideas would be great.
Thanks, Dave

Janicholson · Jan 5, 2009

1/2" thick steel (plasma cut strips about 1" wider than the points on your rows of cleats , welded end to end, then bent into a loop with a single splice using a 3" overlapping splice and a tensioner to keep the band on the existing cleats will be operational. Some use worn tractor tire treads cut to tread only to be carrage bolted to the band. Google images (usually a good method of finding pics). JimN

Dave Koenigsfeld · Jan 5, 2009

Jim,

Thanks for the info.

I found a suggestion where someone used belting rubber glued to the supplemental steel rim. I have found a couple of conveyor belt companies.....what do you think?

Walt Dickie · Jan 5, 2009

You can purchase conveyor skirtboard rubber in 10ft strips, 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick, various widths from conveyor belt suppliers. I used this material in lieu of lugs. Similar to what Miller Tire has.

Dave Koenigsfeld · Jan 5, 2009

this sounds exactly like what I was looking for. Would you happen to have a suppliers name?

Thanks so much!

Dave

Janicholson · Jan 5, 2009

Good idea. Another way would be to use thick 2" conveyer rubber and wrap it on tight to the existing steel wheel cutting out substantial pockets for the cleats. then using a second wrap in the same manor using urethane glue to adhere the second layer also showing the cleats. It would show off the cleats, while making it soft on pavement and driveways. It would be harder to take off if glued on, but it would be fine/unique. JimN

Dave Koenigsfeld · Jan 5, 2009

found rubbercal.com. Looks like I can do front and rear tires for $550-$700 depending on exact size of wheels and thickness. I would think 1 inch would be good but they do not seem to sell 10 or 12 inch widths in 1 in thick. you have to buy 1 1/2 inch thick. I will check around more but I really like this idea.

I can glue this material and bolt it using the brackets in the spaces between the cleats. I'm excited about this.

I hope to get the freshly built motor back in the 1927 10-20 which is on rubber and then focus on the 1925 steel!

Dave

Putting hard rubber over steel wheels - picture

Dave Koenigsfeld

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Walt Dickie

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