WB- I used the method I saw in my I&T manual for my SA, which is I put a bearing splitter cranked on tight, behind and against the pulley, and then used a big 2-jaw gear puller on that. Here's a pic-
where the arrows point to the puller-fingers. The pulley is almost off here.
The next problem was that I needed somewhere to put the nose of the threaded part of the puller against. Turned out, on my SA crank, the end of the crank was recessed, and internally threaded, (once I got all the caked-in mud and chaff out of it), so I got a long bolt and threaded it in that end of the crank, and put the point of the puller against that. Next problem was that as it got tight, the point of the puller was 'walking' around the head of that bolt, so I backed her off, and drilled a little 'divot' on the head of the bolt, for the point of the puller to nestle in, and that did it.
That SOB was tight on there though!! I heated that pulley with a propane torch for maybe 15 minutes, until it was too hot to touch and sizzled when I spit on it, and even then, I had to crank that puller harder than I thought was prudent. (BTW, I used a thick socket that is used on impact wrenches. I broke a regular socket right off.). Finally though, with a loud *snap*, (thought I broke something), the pulley finally broke loose on the shaft. ANother real heavy push, and another *snap*, but then after that, it worked-off just like it should.
I've seen the pic of the bottle jack arrangement here before, but I don't know what it's pushing against, unless it's through the pulley and on the end of the crank. But I didn't want to booger up those internal threads I mentioned.
One other thing, once you got it off- check on the pulley shaft where the short arrow is pointing. That's where the seal sat, and over the years, it cut into the metal. A speedi-sleeve solved that one. I got it from NAPA.
I then used a bottle jack to get the pulley back on, after heating the pulley in the oven to 200 degrees. (Different people had different opinions about whether the heat would damage the new seal). I used bolt holes on the block to arrange a seat for the bottle jack, like this...
..but I used 5/8 rod, and it was flexing too much, so I went to this...
and it worked real slick, and was a super-solid base for the bottle jack. Maybe I didn't even need to heat the pulley!
I've heard of a lot of ways to do all this. Listen to it all, and pick your own.
In the meantime, keep us posted on your progress. I took a LOT of pictures, of the engine overhaul, the hydraulic unit overhaul, and the brakes and rear seals replacements, if you ever need one to look at.
