Tractor purchase advice

Anonymous-0 · Jan 5, 2009

I am considering getting another tractor to use on my round baler.
Last summer I got a New Holland 650 auto tie round baler after my old International 241 broke again and I got fed up with it.
The tractor that I have been using is a Farmall 560D. It runs great and works the 650 ok almost. The hydralics on the old 560 are low pressure, The New Holland 650 was desgined for high pressure. I can open the rear gate about 75% without a bale in the baler. With a bale it will open all the way. I could replace the cylinders but I don`t want to open that can of worms.
My question is what tractor models (color not important tho all of my tractors are red) in the 50 to 75 HP range, diesel and with high preassure hydralics would I be looking for. Money is always a consideration so my old 560D may not get a big brother.

Janicholson · Jan 5, 2009

One suggestion: make a hydraulic booster from two cylinders. Use a drive cylinder about 4 inches in diameter, and a driven of about 3" (with enough volume to assure the operation of the door cylinder) One cylinder pushes the other increasing the pressure Volume + area of piston X stroke. The driven hydraulics will be a closed system, so all air needs to be bled out.
If it is a two way setup, the cylinders need to be two way as well. JimN

mkirsch · Jan 5, 2009

Leon, I think you're going to have to get pretty new to get a high pressure (i.e. >2000PSI) hydraulic system. AFAIK the hydraulic pressure stayed pretty much the same from the 560 all the way up through the 56 series at least, if not into the 66 and 86 series.

Lee in Iowa · Jan 5, 2009

I don"t know what they are supposed to be, but my 856 will blow a 2000 psi gauge so it must have more than 2000 psi hydraulics. An 856 would make a good baler tractor, a little more than 75 horse, but not much more money. Lee

bc · Jan 5, 2009

Well Leon, I'm not sure what you need for high pressure. Guess you can check your baler manual and post back.

I have the manual for the IH 3000 loader. It goes on the 340, 460, 504, 2504, 606, and 2606 tractors. In all of them it says to take out the 1600 psi relief valve and put in a 2000 relief valve.

Your 560 uses the same basic hydraulic equipment as these other and including at least up to the 656 and 2656. I have a 2606 with that loader.

The hoses and valves will handle up to 3000 psi with no problem. The limiting factor is the rated capacity of the pumps. You don't want to go over the rated capacity of the pumps. I don't have the pump specs (hopefully someone else does) but I think they are at least rated to 2250 or 2500 psi.

So maybe just a 100 buck relief valve may do it for you.

The other factor is the needed gallons per minute by the baler(per the manual) and what your tractor puts out. Your 560 will have either the 12 or 17 gpm pump more than likely.

Guess I'd check with case/ih or a hydraulics dealer about a new relief valve before getting a new tractor.

Post back and let us know what you do.

bc · Jan 5, 2009

The pressure rating of your relief valve should be stamped on the top of it but I'm not sure they all are. It is in the block back by the right side of the draft control housing I believe.

Hugh MacKay · Jan 6, 2009

Leon: I ran my round baler with 3 different tractors, 560, 656 and 1066. About the only difference I could see, was 1066 burnt about 3 times the fuel. At the end of a days baling, they all turned out roughly same number of bales.

I think you should test the 560 pressure and volume. I think you have tractor hydraulic problems, and you may just buy that same problem in another tractor. I know I've used my 560 on hydraulic applications much more demanding than any round baler, very little difference between 560 and other tractors I've owned.

Tractor purchase advice

Anonymous-0

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Janicholson

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mkirsch

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Lee in Iowa

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bc

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bc

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Hugh MacKay

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