More H questions

as I work through this, I'm finding more stuff. After putting it back together, I notice some play in my steering, how tight should the castle nut be in the gearbox. Also how do I adjust brakes. Third, I have routine weeping from the radiator overflow when I use it.

Steering play is usually a combination of things. Some gear wear, some slop in between the sector gear and the vertical shaft, and some slop in the bushings on the vertical shaft.

Sometimes a layer or two of beer can tin between the vertical shaft and sector gear will tighten it up acceptably. Sometimes you need to drop the vertical shaft out and replace the bushings. Not much you can do about the gears because used ones will be just as worn and new ones will cost more than you paid for the entire tractor. A little slop is normal, as long as it doesn't shimmy down the road.

It shimmys going down the road, but didn't before I pulled the steering out. I put it back and I think it needs to be tightened at the castle nut on the horizontal shaft.

Chad:
If you don't have an operator's manual, you really ought to get one. It covers things like how full to fill the radiator.....
Some folks are not bothered by 1/4 turn of free-play in the steering. I replaced the gear in the steering box of my SH and my SM and it really tightened them up to almost no play and no shimmy in the front end. You don't have to try to twist off the castle nut, but it needs to be tight. Save yourself some trouble and fill the steering box with corn head grease. I used to see it at Case/IH shops, but lately have only seen it at JD shops. It won't be as apt to leak and it lubes the gears really well as it is much "wetter" than wheel bearing grease.
Your radiator cap may be shot, or you may be overfilling your radiator. Example: The manual for a Super A says not to fill above about 2" from the neck.
I have never owned an H or M with band brakes - however, I have a Super A with them. There is linkage from the pedals to the brake housings which are adjustable.
Hope this information helps you.
mike

(quoted from post at 06:39:19 01/05/09) It shimmys going down the road, but didn't before I pulled the steering out. I put it back and I think it needs to be tightened at the castle nut on the horizontal shaft.

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Ah, now we get the rest of the facts..... With this information, I don't blame you for reconsidering how tight you got the sector gear nut.
And yes - used sector gears can really help tighten up steering - that is, if you buy the full circle design and use the side that has never been touched before. It is a good way to save a lot of money and get tighter steering. I know for a fact it works. mike

Good advice below, One issue to mention is that the steering shaft (as it goes into the box at the top of the bolster) can be looked at carefyully to make sure it does not go in and out as the shaft is turned. Turn the steering wheel to the right till the front wheels begin to turn. Make a felt tip pen mark on the shaft against where it enters. Turn the wheel left till the tires turn back the other way a bit. Now look at the mark. If the mark is away from the box, the big nut (or shimming of the shaft bearings in the box is loose)The shaft should turn freely, but have no end play. The bearings should be preloaded to just begin to feel some resistance at the wheel. Very little, but some. JimN

Nut needs tight enough to keep center of ball bearing from moving on worm steering shaft. Also bearing retainer cap needs to go in tight enough to hold the outside race of bearing from moving.
The best worm shaft bearings are made to stand up better to end thrusts. Lots found in tractors now are not as good but a lot cheaper and work for what most tractors are used for now. As Jim posted any front to rear motion from bearing or other is adding to more play. Others posted other causes, but you ask about the nut on horizotal shaft.

The brakes should not drag and should not have an excessive free movement of the pedals before they take hold. Pedals should have a free movement of 1-1/2"; measurement to be taken between the points of contact of the brake pedal arms with the top of the rear frame cover, or just enough movement so that when just a slight pressure is applied on the brake pedals, the brake lock can be dropped into the first notch in the rack of the left-hand brake pedal arm. To adjust the brakes, screw in the set screw in the bottom of the brake drum cover as far as it will go, then back off one quarter to one-half turn and lock it. Obtain the correct free pedal movement by changing the length of the brake rod by removing the pin from the clevis, loosening the jam nut and turning the clevis either to the right or to the left. To obtain equalization of both brakee, it is very important that both brake pedals have the same amount of free movement. A definite way to check the equalization of the brakes is to jack up both rear wheels so they will turn freely, block the tractor securely and latchthe brake pedals together; then start the engine. Shift the gears to 3rd or 4th speed and engage the clutch; while the wheels are turning, apply the brakes Application of the brakes should slow down both wheels at the same time and also tend to reduce the speed of the engine. If one wheel stops and the other one continues to revolve when the brakes are applied, loosen the adjustment on the wheel that stops just enough so that both wheels stop simultaneously when the brakes are applied.