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1086 broken dowel

B

Bemhoff

Member
Hi, rebuilding the rear lift arm cylinder and after I got the rear cover removed I noticed that one of the 3/4" dowels is broken off just below the surface in the rearend housing. Tried to drill it and as you would guess it is really hard so I have had no lock at all that way. I have also welded a 5/8" nut on top of it, I have been able to turn it a little but when it cools down it gets real tight and the nut usually breaks off. Anyone have any other suggestions or methods?? Thanks
 
You are down to one method.
Buy a carbide (cobalt) drill the size you need.
Cut it off flush. Grind it very flat and smooth. Centerpunch. Then drill Baby drill!
I'd drill a hole in some scrap iron first to check the fit of the new stud.

Gordo
 

Thanks Gordo, Just to make sure I understand you correctly: I am to drill it out the same size that the dowel is?? (3/4" dia) And not like half the size or something like that the dowel is?? I guess I could start out small and work my way up in size also. :shock:
 
Just how good of a welder are ya ????? Now if i was to do this i would Pug weld a nut onto the stud and get a good weld to it then i would weld a bolt and then with a piece of 1 inch pipe and a heavy washer and a nut i would PULL the dowel pin out . Now unless ya plan to dril it on a milling machine or a radial drill press there ain't now way you will hit dead center then you will have a mess .
 
(quoted from post at 10:34:07 01/04/09) Just how good of a welder are ya ????? Now if i was to do this i would Pug weld a nut onto the stud and get a good weld to it then i would weld a bolt and then with a piece of 1 inch pipe and a heavy washer and a nut i would PULL the dowel pin out . Now unless ya plan to dril it on a milling machine or a radial drill press there ain't now way you will hit dead center then you will have a mess .
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info Tractor Vet and sorry for the delayed response ( had to take a quick trip to my daughters ) I agree with ya that I may end up with a mess if I ended up drilling it. Right now I feel I have a 5/8 nut plug welded on pretty good, next I am going to drop a large flat washer over the nut. Then I am going to do something like you mentioned,l weld a 3/4 nut on top of the 5/8 nut. I should be able to use 2 pry bars with the flat washer tight aginst the larger top nut and pull it up out. If needed I can kinda twist the larger nut a little to help break the dowel free. Was just asking incase some one else had ran into this before, the real difficult part is the dowel is broke off about a 1/16" below the surface at a 30 degree angle or so. And of coarse that surface is part of the rear housing, not the lift arm housing. :( :( :( Thanks again, Bemhoff
 
As a machinist I have delt with this problem many
times. On a dowel that large if it is in a blind
hole I would drill it with 1/4" hi-roc carbide drill. Just eyeball it close to center drill through the dowel, fill the cavity under the dowel and about half way up the drilled hole with
grease or heavy gear lube. Stick a piece of 1/4" rod in the hole and hit it with a heavy hammer hydraulic displacement will do the rest.
Good Luck
Dave
 
(quoted from post at 17:28:55 01/04/09) As a machinist I have delt with this problem many
times. On a dowel that large if it is in a blind
hole I would drill it with 1/4" hi-roc carbide drill. Just eyeball it close to center drill through the dowel, fill the cavity under the dowel and about half way up the drilled hole with
grease or heavy gear lube. Stick a piece of 1/4" rod in the hole and hit it with a heavy hammer hydraulic displacement will do the rest.
Good Luck
Dave
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply Dave, I think I am going to try pulling it out first. I already have a nut welded on to it so I might as well give it a shot. I will probably try your method after that. I will probably be best to use a mag drill so things aren't as hard to hold in place. I'll let you know how it goes. Again thanks for the info. :wink:
 
IF YOUR GOING TO DRILL A HOLE THREW IT WHY NOT DRILL OUT AND TAP IT TO PUT A GREASE FITTING IN IT. THEN TAKE A GREASE GUN AND START PUMPING.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have actually thought of that but I am not even sure that I can even drill it. I tried to center punch it ( with a cheap Crafstman center punch) and all i did was flaten the end of the punch. The grease is good idea but at this point I'm not sure I can tap it after I get it drilled. We actually do the same process to change insulators in our Electro Static Percipitator at work. We will see where I go from here, like I said. I don't even know if I can drill it or not????? Another concern I have is that it is about 1 1/2" deep, that is a lot of drilling hard material with out breaking a bit. :x :x :x Thanks again.
 
You could drill into the bottom of the cavity through the side of the casting, and tap the hole for a greese fitting. Cast is easy to drill and tap Small hole, easy solution, quick
Just take the fitting out of the hole when done and plug it with a dowel. Wouldn't want it to be greased later! A grease gun can make 12000 psi, it will come out! (you might need to measure the depth of a different dowel hole to assure the correct depth of the cross drilling from the deck down. JimN
 
Well all, it's out. Had a 5/8" nut plug welded on top of already. Welded a 2nd nut on top of that nut and used a slide hammer and pulled it right up out. The idea of drilling down through it and using hydraulics to push it out wouldn't have worked because the bottom of it is open to a cavity for something. Again, THANKS TO ALL THAT GAVE ME INFORMATION AND SUPPORT.
 
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