47 M TRANS

How do i get transmission shaft out from under the bottom of the tractor, without spiltting it?
This is my first restore need help PLEASE thanks.

You have to remove the belly pumpby removing the three pipes that come out the side. Remove the activating lever and the filler cap. Then lossen the 4 bolts that hold the pum in place, but be careful it is rather heavy and wants to go either forward or backward, forgot which way. Use a floorjack to let it down. When you have the pump outyou can get at the shaft. Ther is a yoke on the back end of the shaft that has to be removed. Hope this helps.

the clutch shaft is to long hits main drive gear shaft.the main drive is what i want to remove piliot bearing is shot.

I have not changed any on an M , but have changed several on H's. It takes some effort but I have gotten them out without removing the belly pump. I would think an M would be the same, but not sure.

Rollie,

Just a thought! If you take off the belt pulley and slide the imput shaft assembly forward would you have enough room to get the bolt and the bearing off the shaft without completely removing the imput shaft? If it could be done this way you would have to use RTV on the gasket/bearing cage when reassembling.
Rollie,

How do i get the drive shaft coupling off the main drive gear shaft? Thanks for your help.

You're trying to get the input shaft out? To get the clutch shaft out without splitting, you have to collapse the pressure plate with 3 5/16" NF x 1.25" bolts, and unbolt the PP from the flywheel. This will give you the wiggle room to pull the clutch shaft clear and drop the clutch and PP. Then pull the input shaft assembly out. You'll have to change the pilot bearing through the belt pulley opening.

That's about all you can do without pulling the trans cover. You should also change the front countershaft seal while you're in there.

Chris B.

THANK YOU Chris, I'll try this and see if it works. We are first timers,just getting started,thank you again.

Good luck. When removing the clutch shaft, you have to angle the whole mess upwards over the input shaft, and it'll all come apart. I did this for my Super M. With the slightly smaller clutch of the M, you might have more wiggle room.

Chris B.

I've done this twice is the last few years. The H has plenty of clearance to get the drive shaft out. On the M, it is really tight. I've not had any luck doing this until I take out the cross shaft that works the clutch release fork. There are two bolts and two heavy washers that are the clamp system to clamp the release fork to the cross shaft. The heavy washers serve as keys to key the fork to the shaft. Take the two bolts out and then pry out the washers. Disconnect the clutch linkage on the outside, and cross shaft will slide right out. Unbolt the clutch release carrier (the part the throwout bearing slides on) from the top of the clutch housing so that is loose. As others said, compress the clutch springs by putting bolts in the threaded holes in the pressure plate frame. I'm assuming you have the bolts out of the coupling in the shaft. Once all that is done, you may be able to tilt the clutch shaft enough to get it out. I don't think there is anyway on the M to get that transmission input shaft out without taking all this out. You may find that you even have to unbolt the clutch pressure plate from the flywheel to tilt the shaft enough to get it out. There is just not much room to do this on the M. Maybe it can be done without taking all this stuff out, but I have not figured it out yet.

Once you get the belly pump out, remove the drive coupler. Take out the cap screw retaining the yoke on the rear shaft and remove the yoke. (It should come out by sliding between the ears of the clutch shaft yoke with the clutch shaft still in place.) With the yoke removed you should be able to remove the input shaft assembly and have access to replace the pilot bearing.

Thanks for the info,the imput shaft is out!!! Do you know how to post and send pics on here so you can look at the gears and tell me if they are usable or not?

Are these gears ok to use

I see a few chipped teeth, but I think I would reuse them if there are not any broken teeth or cracks that look like they could lead to a break. Hard to say from the photos though. I think the 5th gear is most critical. That is the one that locks the shafts together for direct drive. Internal teeth worn, will result in popping out of 5th gear. Can't see those teeth in your photo.