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460 problems

N

Nebraska Kirk

Well-known Member
I am working on a 460 for my great aunt, trying to get it running after sitting outside idle for over a year. I have gone through the carb, replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, points/condenser, rotor, and distributor cap. I can"t get it to start and run for more than a few seconds. I have double checked the timing, tried advancing and retarding it a few degrees, did not seem to help. The couple of times it has ran a few seconds was with the throttle all the way open and the choke about halfway out. I am getting kinda POd and could use some advise & suggestions!
 
If it has a porcelain resistor I would look at that . I have had both a 460 and 560 quickly shut off from that problem. That is after you have checked you have consistent fuel flow out of the carb. Is the gas cap vented and operating correctly? Migraine
 
Rather than replace the ballast resistor, if it is suspect, you can get a 12V coil with an internal resistor from NAPA and remove the ballast. That's what I did to mine. But, it sounds like a fuel problem. Remember that that carb is not adjusted like those on the letter series -- turn the main fuel about 4 turns out and try to start it. If for some reason the oil pump has been messed with, it has to be "timed" to the distributer.
 
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor and see if there's good suction while someone makes an attempt to start the tractor. You need good manifold vacuum to pull that fuel into the engine. You can run a separate wire from the battery to your coil to eleminate the ballast resistor. When they're bad the engine will start as long as you're cranking the engine for a few seconds. Hal
 
Assuming the 460 ignition is same as 560 the resistor may serve another purpose in addition for voltage drop from 12 to 6 volts.

Looking at Bob M diagram for a 560 (do a search, they are often referred to on this site) there is a wire from junction of coil/resistor going to an "I" terminal on the start solenoid. This bypasses the resistor when cranking to give a hotter starting spark.

If the resistor is open the engine will start and then die when starter is released.

(I"ve seen this setup on vehicles and tractors of different colors. I believe this is the reason for coils labeled "12 volt external resistor required")

Bob
 
Kirk,Ive seen tractors that has been sitting a long time have very little compression due to dry cylinders,Pour some oil into the cylinders and crank the motor over with the plugs out,then install the plugs and try again

jimmy
 
True, the original coil and resistor combination can be replaced with a true 12 volt coil. Many 6 volt to 12 volt conversions are done that way. If I were doing a conversion I would do it that way and eliminate potential resistor problems.

I was just pointing out the purpose for the ballast resistor in an original 12 volt system and the possibility that the tractor can start and then die when starter is released.
 
James W, I had a little diesel in the cylinders as the engine was slightly stuck, so that should take care of the lubrication.

El Toro, I tried your suggestion and I could feel very little suction.

I pulled the manifold off and the gasket came off in two pieces, it looked like it was sealing around all the holes ok, but I will get a new one. Another thing, exhaust was leaking from where the two halves of the manifold join together, so I am attempting to take it apart and replace that gasket, so far I have not had any luck. I torched the heads off the four bolts that hold the two halves together, then used a cold chisel & hammer to try splitting them apart. It won't budge, I quit for today, will try again another day.
 
With the manifold off I hit the starter while holding my hand over the rear intake port in the head, I felt good suction there but could not reach any of the other ports at the same time as the starter button.
 
If the suction doesn't improve with a new gasket.
Do a compression check and compare the readings.
Squirt a good bit of engine oil into the cylinders
and crank over the engine a few revolutions then do a compression check. The rings may be stuck
if it hasn't been run lately. I would check the valve clearances too, to make sure they're not set too tight. Hal
PS: If it still has low vacuum I would pull it and see if it will start.
 
if you have everything in order you could give it a pull. this happened to me.bought a w6 that was sitting about 12years. had to clean tank and o/h carb. lubed cyls. and it just seemed like no.comp.so i pulled it and then it just fired right up.it starts great now with the starter.
 
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