Condensation

The building that houses my 460HU is heated in the daytime with the heat off at night. Temp varies from about 35-40 at night to 65 or so in the daytime. Since I don't have splitting stands, I block the rear and roll the front (WFE) away hanging from an engine hoist. I removed the valve cover to keep the chain from hitting it. I have done this more than once -- today there was water and rust inside the valve cover. It was water and not green anitfreeze, so I suppose it is just condensation and not a cracked head--engine and head are rebuilt. The rust was only in the front 25% of the cover. I did slowly remove the oil drain plug, and the oil that seeped out was not preceded by antifreeze. All this apparantly occurred in the last 3-4 weeks because the cover was off before that. The tractor had been run for a few minutes at a time when trying to adjust the clutch so that the gears don't grind. Have driven it outside a couple of times for a few minutes, but engine never did fully warm up, the worst kind of treatment. Did not realize that condensation occurred that fast, especially in "warm" Kansas compared to you guys in the northern states and Canada. Still kind of wonder if I have a leak somewhere, but as I say it was clear water, not mixed with the oil, no cloudiness except one place next to the gasket where it mixed with the oil. Anyone have an opinion? All the old tractors I have bought have had "milk" in the transmission. Never seen it in the valve train before.

If the metal(or whatever it is) gets cold and then a warmer than the metal and moisture laden air moves in, it wlll collect and even drip water, and there has to be an open place for the air in the trans, engine, whatever, to equalize so that is where it comes in. When I first found water dripping out from under the hood of the H and B, wet to the point they wouldn't start. I still have a problem accepting how much can get in transmissions and engines but it will, in the winter generally,

Yes, but this is western Kansas and we don't know what humidity is -- it just surprised me that it happened in that time period inside a dry, insulated, closed building. But, a lot of warming and cooling.

Here in Central Mo. about a week ago it went from 62 degrees to 4 degrees, then 3-4 days later it was back in the mid 50's. I had to take a squeegze to the garage floor, it looked like you had poured out about 10 gallons of water on it.



Gene

Cold air is substantially more dense than warm air. thus the building breathes as it changes temp. Welcome to the reality of humidity. In Indiana mosquitos lay eggs and breed in bottle caps that got turned up side down. Best of luck with the clutch issue. Are you putting some bushings in places never before considered? JimN

The machinest told me that he couldn't help the remaining holes "much" with bushings. I have replaced the pins--the rebushed holes in the rods do not look excessively oversize to me. Very little wear in the TA linkage itself. Split the thing again yesterday, am going to recheck everything. I do get about 1/2 inch free play due to the linkage before the main clutch sleeve moves. That includes two bushed holes in the clutch rod, and movement of the repaired fork against the new sleeve. In addition, the repaired clutch shaft has very minor slop in the hole in the clutch housing -- it all adds up, but I don't think the wear is that excessive. I have adjusted the TA by the book, and also by visually making sure the TA releases at the proper time when I push in the clutch. The TA releases before the main clutch is all the way down, like I believe it should, they seem to be releasing together. Something is binding somewhere -- I am not eager to remove the TA as it does not slip in direct or with the lever pulled back. I can kill the engine by pushing on the brakes with the lever back. One other thing. The main shaft that fits inside the PTO drive, that the clutch disk fits on: It has up and down and lateral play -- is it supposed to fit that way, or is it supposed to have no movement? The play will disappear when inserted in the pilot bearing. In fact, to me it seems it would be impossible to line up the shaft and the pilot bearing if there was not some movement? I put the pressure plate and the disk on the shaft first and bolt the pressure plate on after connecting the front to the rear. I did buy a pilot tool from this site, but it is plastic, thus I don't trust it. Will keep looking.

The moisture that forms the condensation more that likely comes from the blow by gasses. Water vapor is a byproduct of combustion. Does not take long for them to accumulate with short cold run times.

The moisture that forms the condensation more that likely comes from the blow by gasses. Water vapor is a byproduct of combustion. Does not take long for them to accumulate with short cold run times.

Click to expand...

I would agree 100% with that...consider water is part of the combustion reaction...and even on a 70F ambient start there's a lot of "cold metal" to be warmed up.

Inside of the valve cover would be one of the last places to warmup due to minimal oil flow and first to cool down due to the thin sheetmetal bathed by ambient air.

I believe I would check the runout of the master clutch when it is out of the system. Put it on a shaft and spin it.
If a spring (or two like screen door springs) were used to pull the TO bearing rearward, the slack would be removed. Best of luck, and new year. Jim

I will do that -- and that reminds me. The foreign made sleeve I have fits very tight on the shaft. It has to be forced back at a point toward the rear, but seems to work ok with the factory setting of the fingers. I did not like the looks of it when I opened the package, but the dimensions compared to the other one seem ok. At first I thought there was not enough lip on it for the TO bearing to fit on -- going to remove it and look closer.

Good Idea. Jim