1940 to 1944 Farmall H Tranny

People,
I have a 1940 to 1944 Farmall H. It has been very good to me. I have converted it to 12 Volts and put a bucket on the front. Nevermind!

I had it in the woods a year ago and the tranny locked up on me. With the front of it towards the brush pile, I could not get it to go anyway but forard. It was in a too high of gear. I jacked up the back of the floor pan and was able to get it in a lower forward gear. With the help of a truck, pulling me backwards, I was able to get the tractor back to the barn. By that time, I was able to shift gears, but as I would pull forward, a loud cluncking sound would happen every revolution of the tranny gears. I got the floor pan back together, but the sound kept on being present.

I used it one more time, and when I was putting it away, the tranny locked on me. It would run while I had my foot on the clutch, but when I would release the clutch, it would die. I figured that I have a broken tooth stuck in the gear teeth in the tranny.

I am trying to pull the floor pan all the way off to investigate, but I cannot get the floor pan off. All the bolts are out, the seat is off, it has a side fly gear, and I am trying to hoist the whole mechanism off the tractor from the front so that it does not wedge the set pins. Every bolt is loose except for the two bolts that were threaded from down below by the fly gears in front. I thought if those are holding it then this was a bad design. I did not have a manual that would show me the mechanics of this assembly so I tried to cut these upside down bolts off, thinking that they would have been screwed in place before the two halves of the tractor were connected together. Blue torched them out and still no release on the front off the floor pan to expose the tranny gears.

HELP ME PLEASE with any advice to take the floor pan off the rest of the way, to get to the real problem in the gear box, short of taking the tractor apart in two halves.

LaMar Gifford

Hi LaMar.

If I understand, you are trying to pull the deck plate from on top of the transmission, correct?

Have you already pulled the steering post and the bracket for the gas tank as well? If I remember correctly you have to pull those off of the plate as well before you remove it entirely.. (I might be thinking of my M...)

What you call the 2 upside down bolts are dowel pins that are straight and smooth below threads. The threads were to put a nut on them to remove.
No mater they just go through gear box and into transmission cover. If you have the bolts out of gear box it will come off with cover, or the gear box should pry off and pull the dowels with it. If you have all bolts removed from cover top, remove the ones from brake covers that screw into transmission top. Some dowel pins you can't see until top is off is all left to stick to.
If you raised the rear of cover very much when trouble started the shifting forks may be bent and causing tractor to try and go into 2 gears at once. In transmission top just below shifter look for 2 expantion plugs, they hold pin in and pin holds gear shift. Remove gear shift and look down hole and line slots in shifter rails to center position. See if that frees transmission. If shift forks are bent it may not help. Or as you said could be something else messed up.

Had a simular problem with an M last winter. Pilot bearing was bad on transmission input shaft and a bearing went inbetween 2 gears. Take the gas tank off than remove belt pulley assy. if you have one or cover plate if no belt pulley assy. You might be able to reach into that compartment and see if you con move the input shaft. Keep in mind that my experence is with a M but a H should be about the same. You need to get a I&T repair manual so you can get an idea of what you are dealing with and how to do it. To pull the top cover from the transmission the cover needs to be lifted as level as possible to prevent the cover from binding on the pilot bolts. If it is the pilot bearing you will have to split the tractor behind the hyd. pump. Also keep mind that I found a piece of bearing in the compartment under the belt pulley assy. so clean every compartment before putting everything back togather. Keep us posted as to what you find. Armand

I had a similar problem with a W6. Look on the side of the top cast you trying to remove. See if there is a bolt that holds the top of the brake housing onto the "floor pan." If so, remove that on each side and you should be free to lift off.

Mike

Link below to my tear down web page.

43 H

I had to tap on the deck with a large soft blow hammer to get it loose, it was rusted pretty tight.

Randy

Don't forget to take out the two bolts that go from the brake drum housing into the deck plate...there is one on each side, and you will never get it off without taking those two bolts out.

mark