Farmhand Loader Q -- Allan?

Hi All,

I've got a Farmhand loader (I think it's the F10, the big mongrel that surrounds the tractor w/ the 9 foot bucket, I always get the F10 and F11 confused). I seem to remember "Allan in NE" being very knowledgeable about these when I first bought it about 5 years ago.

Well, I busted it by splitting the U-channel across the lower back -- I later realized that the previous owner had cut about a 2 inch diameter hole through both of the 3 inch legs of the U, he must have run a PTO shaft through it at some point.

I jacked up both sides and had a friend weld it up real nice for me, but I didn't figure it all the way through and didn't get the two sides quite level. Not a big deal for most of my loader needs, but now when I go to push snow if I can get the left side of the bucket just off the gravel the right side is 5-6 inches up in the air. This doesn't make for a very "finished" yard or driveway.

Is there any easy or simple fix for this? Some type of extension I can rig at one end or the other? I'm picturing something like a turnbuckle or the jacks you use to level up sagging floor so I can get it just right? Or do I need to cut it apart and somehow get the geometry right before putting it back together? (In that case I'll probably just live w/ it)

Thanks. And thanks for your help earlier on the loader, tire chains for the M, and other advice you gave back them. I can't find my old ID or password, but it was probably bob something or other.

Thanks again,

My thoughts on this would be to cut your old weld than clamp the pieces to a I-beam or box tubing to keep it straight and true when you re-weld it altho Alan may have a better idea. Hope this helps. Another idea would be a new piece of tubing. Did you plate over the 2in. holes? Any pictures? Armand

You might be able to shim up the low side. Just be sure to bolt it solid. There is a lot of strain there.

You might be able to put enough pressure on it with a jack to twist it straight, but I'm afraid that the only way you'll ever be happy with it is if you cut it apart and reweld it, this time on a flat concrete floor where you can get things level if at all possible.

Hi Bob,

Like Howard says, they can be shimmed somewhat to compensate for header level.

However, in your case, if that backbone is really out of wack, it's gonna be hard to ever get it totally straight again.

Think I'd scrounge the salvage yards for another iron, as a new one would probably cost an arm and a leg. Take your tape measure as they came in 3 different widths; 8, 9 and 10 feet.

Allan

Another thought is to put an adjustable skid or depth wheel on the low side in front behind the balde this would allow gravity to set things more level for the winter. Then get it straight this spring. A skid or wheel will allow float to follow contours better as well. Put a 2X4 under the low side and let it down. If it sags to allow the high side to get level, it will work. JimN

There is a junked out F10 about 1/2 mile from my place. Near Mitchell, SD. If you are interested I can check on it for you. I just gave the owner about 50 dollars worth of grinding wheels so I think he will work woth us.

Gordo

Thanks for all the info/ideas.

I picked up a football-sized frozen clod of dirt on the bottom of the low side the other day and that worked as a pretty good skid. That got me thinking of rigging some kind of skids for this year. Since I don't have any down pressure it already tends to ride over drifts instead of scooping them up, but skids might be the ticket for this year.

I was trying to use the same holes on the spreaders (? the flat bars that come back from the axles?) and was afraid to jack the left side any higher when I first did it.

Armand- I can certainly take some pictures. I'm a terrible welder but I got a friend to to it for me. If I recall correctly I took 3-4 L-shaped pieces, about a foot long and put one inside and one outside on one leg of the U, then one outside on the other (no room in the channel for another one, so we didn't weld on the fourth one. That covered the holes.

Gordo -- I'm up by Brookings, so Mitchell isn't too terribly far away. I'm not sure what my long-term plans are for this M anyway. I got a "new" Ford ('62 4-cylinder 4000) this year, and if I can rig a loader for that I might let the M go. At least, that's what I promised my wife when I was scraping to buy the Ford. I love the 3-point and power steering but the M has more character (and I can't get the ford started right now...) I may end up keeping both, as I tend to not let things go. A dedicated loader tractor and another for mowing and such would be pretty swell, providing I can find a place to keep them both. I guess let's hold off till spring, and if I'm looking then I'll drop you a line.

I remember those old farmhand loaders in SD, quite a bulky loader and not known for there strength, they were mainly used to stack hay and could they lift high. Over 20 foot+ I believe, you better be on level ground. It might be hard to re cut the piece and reweld it straight,but it could be done with reenforcement, a replacement piece would be Ok if the rest of the frame is straight. 5-6" sounds a lot, but in 9ft it is just barely out of wack. Either way the bucket needs to be on the ground level before any repairs are made. Just my 2cents.