farmall H '47 belts

Doug M

Member
Bought 2 new belts yesterday because I could see the ones on the tractor were severely cracked. Water pump belt broke today while plowing snow (hope it didn"t overheat to bad). Changing these belts doesn"t look anything like doing a cars belts.

Can someone tell me the procedures for replacing them?

Thank you in advance.
 
You are in for a interesting time. The first item is to remove a square headed set screw on the front half of the Water Pump pulley. This set screw (and rust) prevent the unscrewing of the front half of the pulley. Use PB Blaster, liquid Wrench, or other penetrating oil (Auto trans fluid will do) and liberally spray and apply it to the pulley adjustment mechanism. Heat the front pulley with a Propane torch until it is a bit too hot to touch (not more) then using a brass drift and a hammer, tap in both tightening (CW from the front of tractor) and CCW, on the metal bars that the setscrew came out of, and the one on the opposite side. This continuous tapping and more heat, and tapping, will eventually get it moving so that the two halves of the pump pulley can be rotated apart substantially.
Put a new generator (or alternator) drive belt on it now!
with a warm belt (if possible!!) loop the belt over the tips of the fan blades, (one at a time) placing it on the pulley side of the fan. Put it on the Gen/alt. Do the same with the fat belt. (it is possible!! Pull the big Belt downward to be snaked into the space between the crank snout, and the hand crank drive (bottom pulley. Now place the belt into the groove of the pump pulley (wide open now) and then run it onto the crank pulley. Tighten the pulley back together until the belt tension is about an inch and a quarter total play pushing and pulling on it with your hand in the middle of one side. This seems loose, but they are run with this tension. Put in the setscrew with anti Sieze on it (and the big threads of the pulley) in place, and run the tractor for an hour or so. then check the tension and adjust to the 1.125 range push pull, to make it perfect. Do not over tighten the big bely, it will destroy the Water pump. JimN
 
Sounds like the radiator should be removed for this. what are the procedures for that?

Is there a book that would tell me all this?
 
Read one of your replies on a dif. topic. I'm in central mn also, north of saint cloud. Would you have any interest in helping me out?
 
Tough weather today, but I would like to help. where are you specificallly. The radiator is not in the road. Getting that off would more than quadrouple the effort. The problem is the collar with the set screw, All other issues are not difficult at all. I am near the hospital in SC. JimN
 
Sure. East of Opole about a mile lives a farmer aquaintance that has a Peacock made from dump rake tines in his yard. I have a (authorized) copy in my yard. If you have grief putting the belt on, let me know and perchance I can help when this weather moderates. Jim
 
can you get the belt past the(hand crank shalf), i think on mine i coulnt, had to remove cotter pin, it was a while ago cant really remember
 
Looks like the alt/gen belt pully works the same way only loosens towards the rear? does the nut on the front of the pully have to be loose or removed?
 
Progress is slow so anytime you feel like coming out give me a call. You know more than me so I'm sure you could answer other questions I have if I happen to finish this before you get here. thank you.
 
Since the water pump belt is already off, just replace the generator belt first, then work the new water pump belt over the fan blades and onto pulley. If it was tight enough before it should be fine, probably no need to mess with the radiator or adjustable pulley.

Might help to take the spark plugs out so you can turn the engine easier, just don't mix up the plug wires.
 

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