SMTA Fan Belt Pulley

Trying to tighten the fan belt on the SMTA. Which way does the fan, the threaded fan hub, turn in the belt hub to tighten? From in front of the tractor?

How do you guys do it? Put a large pipe wrench on the belt hub and drive the fan (threaded) hub with a punch? Don't have enough hands to hold all the tools. It's one of the few parts I didn't disassemble when I restored the brute, But after I ran the old genny belt under it, and a new PS belt under it, and cleaned off some major rust on the crank pulley, the fan belt is a little loose.

Gordo

Spray the threads down with PB Blaster or favorite. Take the setscrew completely out and spray in there. Warm the movable part up with a propane torch (warm, not belt burning smoke) drive the top away from you when standing on the distributor (right) side of the tractor. (thebelt can be pretty loose 1/2" slack with serious thumb pressure. The belt is so big it drives the Pump and gen/alt with no issues. Overtightening will ruin the pump bearings if it is not slipping it is good to go. JimN

The adjustable flange is right hand threaded onto the hub. To tighten the belt turn the flange clockwise as viewed from the fan.

How to turn the flange? I use a long punch engaged into any convenient flange "lug" and tap with a hammer. Hold the fan from turning with a scrap of wood wedged between a fan blade tip and shroud.

Be sure to remove the locking set screw from the adjustable flange! A shot of your favorite penetrating oil down the set screw hole is often helpful.

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Tip: The fan belt SHOULD run "a little loose". 1-1/2" or so deflection under light finger pressure at mid-span is about right.

My deflection was from when the belt is pushed to straight from pulley to pulley, and is as tight as you should ever have it. JimN

Thanks guys for the fast responses. I had already loosened the set screw and flange nut, hosed it with PB, and awaiting responses. In the AM will block the fan and see if we get any movement. I agree it doesn't take a lot of tension to drive the fan, but I found a lot of corrosion on the crank pulley, so when I cleaned that off I built in some slop.

I was able to remove the gen belt just by wedging it under the fan belt and rotating the crank with a pipe wrench. Good tip for gen belt removal. Ran a rope around the PS pump and generator and measured that. Clear on the thermo housing, and radiator brace. Will get a belt tomorrow. Then on to cutting the shaft and install the torque gen. It's rebuilt, all new seal, rings and bearings. Can't wait, no more "Armstrong".


Funny the things that gets by you in a restoration. Had done the radiator, and reinstallled and filled. Thermostat, water pump, all new hoses. Just removed and reinstalled the drain pipe. When I went to drain the radiator, I removed the cap from the drain pipe, nothing came out. Got a wire drill and ran it up that pipe and a fistfull of gunk came out and then the fluid gushed out. Had the tranny funnel and bucket right there though

Don't tap it too hard, the one on my H broke really easy, Scott's got $52.00 for a new one, and big $$$ to replace it a couple of years back. (Gotta take the radiator off to get the fan off on an H & I wasn't willing to do that in the middle of the winter.) I THINK IH made a spanner wrench for them, we had one on the farm, looked like the ones plumbers use. Wish I still had it, I'm sure it went on Dad's sale in a box of junk. (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)