Conversion from Key Switch back to stock?

Clarkbug · Dec 7, 2008

Hello All.

So I have a '49 M that the previous owner has done a "custom" wiring job on. It currently has a key switch, along with a separate toggle switch for the lights. The key switch operates a separate solenoid from a Ford pickup.

The tractor has been converted to 12 v positive ground and has an electronic ignition from Denny's Carb Shop.

I would like to convert it back to the push button mounted on the steering post and eliminate the key switch.

First off, am I crazy for wanting to do this? Everything works right now, and there is even an hour meter installed. Is there anything I need to beware of?

I know that for parts I will need the starter switch, the push-pull switch, and probably some of the other innards of the light box. (I dont know if those work or not...)

Any thoughts?

rustyfarmall · Dec 7, 2008

If you're gonna keep the electronic ignition, you'll have to stay with 12 volts, but 12 volts will work just fine with all the original style push-pull ignition switch and the push button starter switch. My M had also been switched to a key style ignition, with the switch installed in a BIG hole drilled in the headlight bar. Can you say UGLY? I got rid of the switch and welded the hole shut.

TheDurk · Dec 7, 2008

One area of concern would certainly be the original light switch: Does it work at all? Is it even there? Is it compatible with the new 12V system? The toggle switch may be in there for a reason. The 12V lights may be brighter than the 6V bulbs they replaced drawing more current and fry the dimmer resistance (if there is one)or it may already be fried. I went to toggle and relay on my 140 when I put Piper Cub landing light bulbs in my 140. Make sure you know what bulbs you have in there. The rest should be easy. Obviously you value an original tractor; if you so prefer, go for it. I like to modify my 1966 tractor so I can count on it to snowplow in a blizzard. If I had a '49, I might feel differently.

armand tatro · Dec 7, 2008

IF IT AINT BORKE WHY FIX (change) IT. aS LONG AS IT RUNS GOOD USE IT AND ENJOY!!! ALSO THAT KEY SWITCH CAN KEEP CHILDREN AND OTHER PEOPLE FROM STARTING IT. Something think about about. So use it as it is and enjoy!!!!! Armand

Chris NW Ind · Dec 7, 2008

I had the same dilemma with my W9. When I bought the tractor it had: 12V alternator conversion, push button start mounted on the elec'l box, Ford-style solenoid mounted on the fuel tank support, individual push-pull switches for the front and rear, no fuse, after-market square headlights.

I was originally going to return everything to original except the alternator. So, I found a good light switch and rewired all the lights and installed original-style tear drop lights. Now the starter, as original, is supposed to have a saddle-mount switch w/ a pull rod. The previous owner drilled and tapped the copper lug to use a 3/8" eyelet battery cable w/ the solenoid. Instead of swapping all that out, I simply moved the starter button to a less conspicuous location (at the base of the steering column where the shutter controls would be.)

Looks good, and works great. I love reliable 12v starts in 15 degree weather!

Chris B.

Clarkbug · Dec 7, 2008

Thanks for all the input everyone.

Ill post a picture if I can find one a little later of the current setup, just so you guys can see what I mean.

I am not really a stickler for original stuff, especially if it works well. However, I have already had one of the solenoids go bad, and Im worried that it might happen again in the future. Plus its something that if a part of the system does go bad in the future, Its going to be a real PITA to figure out what went wrong, since its such a custom installation.

I plan to keep the electronic ignition, along with the 3 wire alternator conversion that was done to it. I just like the push button starter switch instead of the key/solenoid version.

Durk, you bring up a good point. Ill have to talk the light box apart and see whats goin on in there before I go too much further... This could get to be an expensive proposition if Im not careful...

John M · Dec 7, 2008

12 volt POSITIVE ground? With an alt? Never saw an M with the switch on the post like an H, but guess it was at some point.

NDS · Dec 7, 2008

If you have good salvage yard you should find everthing you need except original ignitin switch for reasonable price. I bought original starter switch and good complete amp meter/light switch box for $15 3/4 years ago. Original ignition switches are a little hard to find and new repro switch is $50+. I bought good guality Case/IH switch for about $15 and it fits and works good but does not look like original.

Clarkbug · Dec 7, 2008

Oops!

I meant negative ground. My mistake!

Chris NW Ind · Dec 7, 2008

To clarify, I have a electrical solenoid start with a push button to activate it. Really, much nicer than the pull-rod or the mech'l solenoid and it does look halfway original.

Chris B.

NDS · Dec 7, 2008

Intended to post under Clarkbug post.

mkirsch · Dec 8, 2008

There is a reason that they stopped using those push button switches and went to solenoids.

Push button switches tend to get burned contacts, and stop working after a while because you can't push the switch fast enough to prevent it from arcing. A solenoid makes the connection much much more quickly, and as such is much more reliable.

On an M, the proper location for the push button is at the base of the steering pedestal, with a little "flapper pedal" to push it with your right toe. These can be particularly troublesome because, well, they're down near your cruddy boots when you get on and off the tractor.

Ms never had the push button switch up on the steering post like an H where you could operate it with your hand, right up through the Stage I Super M. They switched to the "saddle" type directly on the starter sometime in 1953.

A solenoid setup really isn't too complicated, and it may be worth your while to re-wire what you have.

HENRY E NC · Dec 8, 2008

My M is a 12 volt and had a key switch like yous. I redid in to original about 3 years ago . The starter switch mounts through the gas tank support and is activated by a lever attached to the steering post and replaces the solenoid.. Got the lever from Joes Farmall Parts in PA but I am sure Steel Wheel Ranch has them also. I like mine because its so easy to use and very simple. Henry

Conversion from Key Switch back to stock?

Clarkbug

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rustyfarmall

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TheDurk

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armand tatro

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Chris NW Ind

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Clarkbug

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John M

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NDS

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Clarkbug

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Chris NW Ind

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NDS

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mkirsch

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HENRY E NC

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