I recently acquired a Farmall "M" and have not worked on one before so am not real familiar with these tractors. It will occasionally smoke very light colored smoke, mostly under light load or idle and seems to be using oil, more than normal. It doesn't smoke under heavy load. The smoke doesn't look like oil smoke, it is almost white. There seems to be no water in the oil, and the rediator level isn't dropping. I have done a compression test on it and all cylinders had between 100 and 110 lbs. and putting oil in the cylinders only brought up the compression a max. 10 lbs. The engine runs smooth and has lots of power. Does anyone out there have any idea what is going on and why is it smoking and using oil? What can I check for? Thanks for any help!!
- Thread starter Jim R
- Start date
Very likely that it's burning oil through worn valve guides. The best way to estimate wear in the guides is to warm it up good and then shut it off. While it sits, oil will run down the guides and puddle on the valves. When you start it up after five minutes or so, it will smoke real good for a few seconds and then clear up. Even though you can't always see it, I'm sure it's burning oil all the time it's running.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I agree with JeffB on the valve guides, but also, if adding oil to the cylinders raises the compression by 10 pounds, there is a problem with the rings and maybe even the sleeves too.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
I know from experiences I have had that the amount of oil put in can influence the outcome. a max of one teaspoon, or two squirts from a trigger type oiler is all that is needed. More just takes up space in the combustion chamber and makes the effective compression substantially higher.
If prolonged idling makes continuous smokeing, or a down hill run in high gear usung the engine as a brake (throttled down) causes serious smoking for several seconds, the guides are suspect. I do believe in umbrella and Perfect circle style seals. It is a interum solution, and can work well for less money. JimN
If prolonged idling makes continuous smokeing, or a down hill run in high gear usung the engine as a brake (throttled down) causes serious smoking for several seconds, the guides are suspect. I do believe in umbrella and Perfect circle style seals. It is a interum solution, and can work well for less money. JimN
Thanks Janicholson for your reply. I thought it might be a valve problem. Can you enlighten me about the Perfect Circle style seals. Is there a cheaper solution than a valve job at least for the time being as I am really strapped for funds at this time? If this is something I can do to get me by for a while, it would be a big help. Where do I start? I appreciate your help!
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
The oil that is burned because of worn valve guides usually is not significant enough to cause a noticeable oil consumption problem. If you are needing to add oil on a regular basis, you may need to dig a bit deeper than just the valve guides.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Remove the spark plugs, Remove the valve cover, and the rocker shaft, rockers, and push rods. Be careful to not pull lifters out of their bore, sometimes the pushrods get a suction fit to the lifters, be patient, and keep them in order frnt to back. You will need a lever type valve spring compressor, and a 2' piece of 1/4" cotton rope.
Use a 9/16" deep socket as follows.
Use a plastic faced hammer and the socket (alone) to loosen each valve keeper. Place the socket o the valve keeper so the socket covers the stem. Rap the socket modestly with the hammer. This breaks the bond of the keepers to allow easy removal.
Pull the plugs out.
In number one cylinder, push in all but 6" or so of the rope. Hand crank. or use the fan belt to turn the cylinder untill the rope is compressed into the valves holding them up in place. Put it in gear to keep the engine from turning backward.
Now use the spring compressor to remove the keeper and spring. Put on the seal as directed in the material supplied with the seals. All cylinders are done in the same way. JimN
Use a 9/16" deep socket as follows.
Use a plastic faced hammer and the socket (alone) to loosen each valve keeper. Place the socket o the valve keeper so the socket covers the stem. Rap the socket modestly with the hammer. This breaks the bond of the keepers to allow easy removal.
Pull the plugs out.
In number one cylinder, push in all but 6" or so of the rope. Hand crank. or use the fan belt to turn the cylinder untill the rope is compressed into the valves holding them up in place. Put it in gear to keep the engine from turning backward.
Now use the spring compressor to remove the keeper and spring. Put on the seal as directed in the material supplied with the seals. All cylinders are done in the same way. JimN
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