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3 point design consideration

M

mattofvinings

Member
Just curious about what goes into designing a 3-point hitch (aftermarket-custom-homebrew).

I can guess that longer lift arms allow more vertical travel but decrease the actual max load which can be lifted. Eventually along that path, even if the hydraulics had enough power to lift the implement, it might lift the front end of the tractor off the ground first.
 
True as stated.
The best bet is to stay close to successful designs. The class of hitch is intended to have specific lift distance, and pulling forces applied. If a design gets far from the intent, it will not pull tillage equipment well. JimN
 
First thing is what size tractor are we talking about. General rule is to design it so the tractor can"t tear up the hitch regardless what you do with it. Every tractor I"ve had or have can lift the front off the ground when not counter weighted and will pull itself to a stand still and not tear up the hitch. Since your asking about hitch design I would guess you want a 3 point for a non 3 point tractor. If it is an M you can do what I did and use parts off of other tractors. I believe the rockshaft and drop links components are from a 560. Then you can take your M out and cultivate with a vintage tool bar
v6351.jpg

i6425.jpg
 
Matt: Dan makes a good point, what size tractor do you want the hitch for. I've fabricated a few of them for the offsets, however the hitch one builds for a Super A will probably not bolt up to or stand up to the punishment a Super M will dish out. Then you have every size in between.
 
i have a 404 rowcrop with a narrow front end. it has one set of wheel weights on the rims. if i try to life up anything extremly heavy with the boom pole as the 3 point lifts, the front end will come up, and the "load" will stay put. just thought i'd throw in my 2 cents.
 
Matt: Pleeeaaassseee tell us whether you wish to put a 3 point hitch on a Cub Cadet, or 4366, There is a bit of difference.
 
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