solenoid/relay got my wires crossed

e-manhunt

Member
My m wasn't starting-rebuilt the starter. ammeter wouldn't flicker. I jumped from the starter switch to the positive on the battery, so i figured it was the ammeter or solenoid relay(canister type thing). i removed the solenoid and ammeter. to make a long story short, i got extra wires. Which wire goes to the small terminal on the solenoid? The starter button? "Then a got an extra wire --14 guage where I have no idea where Ai pulled it from --18inches long. Bob m's electrical diagram for 12v conversion doesn't use a solenoid relay. thanks
 
The M doesent use a soleniod just a dimmer type sw to energize the starter. So yours must have some other type set-up. Go back and make it original then the problems are solved.
 
if it has a three terminal solenoid on it, there will be two big terminals, one from the battery, the other to the starter. the third terminal will be a small postusually on the top. the small post is where the hot wire from your starter button will go, that terminal will cause the solenoid to close when the starter button is depressed, causing the starter to engage. on the big terminal on the solenoid coming from the battery, there should be a good size wire, prolly #10 that would feed the tractors electrical system ie lighting and starting circuit. if it has a 4 post solenoid, 2 big and two little posts, on some older cars, the second small post would only be hot when the solenoid engaged the starter. what they did there is run a separate wire from that post directly to the ignition coil, (bypassing the ballast resistor) so it would put 12v directly to the coil, giving a hotter spark on startup. when you relesed the starter button, that circuit would then shut off and the coil would be fed power thru the ballast resistor. some of the older fords ran that set up, and some of the early gm's would do that, but from a starter mounted solenoid.
 

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