300u starter switches

Rick Bachman · Nov 22, 2008

I'm back again. Seems my starter problems are more then a solenoid. Trying to track down the problem. I have no juice to the S terminal. Tracking backwards, I have a 2 toggle switch starter system. (Yeah I know not OEM, but I didn't do it)

Any way I do have juice to the yellow wire connected to the on/off toggle switch. But that is it. There are 2 terminals on this switch. The yellow wired one and the other has two wires off of it. One going to the momentary switch for the starter. The other is a black or purple wire which I assume is a ground.

I activate the switch expecting to get juice to that terminal & the other switch but get nothing. Seems like I am missing something very simple here?? But being very simple I AM missing it.

Any advise? Thanks!!

Rick

Janicholson · Nov 23, 2008

I have a clear image in my head of what you have. The toggle switch has its input wire hot at all times. the two wires leaving are going to be powered from that switch when it is on, and no power will flow when off. The switch is wired correctly. The wire going to the push button momentary contact is correct to supply that switch with power. that switch then is connected to the starter S terminal on the relay on the starter. Again correct. The other wire on the toggle goes to the ignition coil to give it running voltage. It is correct. The toggle switch is bad. Disconnect the coil where the lead comes into it (small probably minus marked terminal) Use a jumper wire to jump across the toggle switch terminals nothing should happen, if it does there are possible shorts in a wire going to the coil. Now test for volts at the disconnected coil wire (it should be battery volts). Push the starter button (it should spin and crank (neutral is a good idea)). Now reconnect the coil and start it! Needs a new Toggle switch, get a water resistant one that handles 20 or so amps. JimN

Rick Bachman · Nov 23, 2008

Jim,

Just came back in and found your post. I have checked wiring and all is in order. I had voltmeter on the on/off toggle, When switch is off I show 12.5 volts. Turn switch on and I get zilch. I thought I had checked the switch last week and it was good but having second thoughts and will recheck. That I think would leave me with a bad coil?? Am I correct? Luckily I have eliminated continuity on all wires, so I know they are good. At least I know some things it isn't now! Thanks for your advise!!

Rick

Janicholson · Nov 23, 2008

Your info above does not exactly tell me which terminal you got 12v on, or when. The wire supplying the toggle switch should come from the load side of the amp meter. (not the side hooked to the battery lead on the starter relay)
This will give the toggle sw power all the time on one of its terminals. The other side of the toggle sw should have the wire going to the coil (or the ballast resistor on the coil if it needs one), and one going to the push button starting sw. If the output side of the toggle switch is not hot when the switch is on, it may be a bad sw. If the input side of the switch goes dead with it on, you may have a bad connection.wire going to the amp gauge load side.
or the wire going to the starter battery cable connector.
The coil should be either a 12v no external resistor required, or a 12v with resistor required (with a resistor) or a 6v coil with the resistor. Unless it is cranking, you will not be testing the coil. JimN

Rick Bachman · Nov 24, 2008

The power to the switch is a yellow wire and I haven't tracked it back yet but I never considered that the wire from the amp meter might be bad. Since I read 12v, I just assumed good wire. That makes sense though. I just jumped to conclusions since the black wire went to the coil, it had to be the problem. I like your fix. It makes more sense, and better yet it will be cheaper!!! THANKS SO MUCH!!!!

Rick

300u starter switches

Rick Bachman

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Janicholson

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Rick Bachman

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Janicholson

Well-known Member

Rick Bachman

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