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OT gas filter on 95 lumina

D

dave guest

Well-known Member
Grandson has this car and somebody who was changing plugs with him told him his gas filter was half plugged. Is there any diagnostic tool to determine this? And how does it work? You cannot see inside of filter and no lines were disconnected. Thanks, I am stumped.
 
You can take the filter off and try to blow through it. If its never been changed it will probably be restricted or plugged.However new ones are cheap and i would get one before i took the old one off. Good luck
Jeff
 
Hi Dave,

Without getting too darned technical, the transmission’s ground speed shift points tend to rise from the norm with a plugged fuel filter because of the "extra" TPS threshold needed to meet the electronic shifting perimeter criteria.

It’s one of those quirks of nature on a GM product. A plugged fuel filter will show up as a “faulty transmission operation” symptom long before it affects the engine.

This “out of bounds” data can be read on a scanner or if ya work on the goofy things every day, ya get to the point that you can actually “feel it” in the seat of your pants. :>)

On the other hand, a plugged air filter, dirty mass air flow or restricted exhaust tends to point at an over-fueled condition with a lackluster/lazy engine feel.

Allan
 
If it hasn't been changed in 30K (or never) its a good idea to change it anyway. Making your fuel pump work extra hard to force fuel through a marginal filter will only lead to more expensive repairs later.

Given the fuel situation (pumping from the bottem of the storage tank) and the rotation of fuel through the strategic reserve this summer a lot of poor fuel was sold to the consumer.
 
Some of those fuel filters like the one I had on a Chevy Citation were good for trapping moisture from the gas and freezing causing a no start. Hal
 
Allan, 1. What causes a catalytic converter to get plugged up. I had a cheap one put on my 4.3L V6 about 2 years ago and now it"s blowing out my crossover pipe and the exhaust manifold doughnuts and it takes forever to speed up from 45 to hwy speed.
2. This same car surges when slowing down into 25-35mph. Not engine surge. It feels like all four tires are out of round at the same spot. Then it goes away.
 
What year and make of car?

I left GM and went to Ford in early '99, so I gotta be kind of careful on my opinions.

Don't want to mislead anyone. :>)

Allan
 
Allan, Hal and the rest are right on.
It"s inexpensive and easy to change (if you are inside a heated building on a lift)
 
Those are some sweet old cars. Always liked working on those things.

Hate to say it, but the converters are just like mufflers. Ya get what ya pay for and "design" makes all the difference in the world when buying replacment parts. Especially so, when "time in use" is your enemy.

However, (and this may have been on earlier models), I've seen a lot of those GM exhaust systems where the inner pipe was collapsed and plugging the flow. Acts just like a plugged converter.

If your deacceleration thing is certainly not engine related, I'd be for looking at those rear drums. Especially if there is no pulsation in the brake pedal.

They had a nasty habit of going egg-shaped. Also, I'd look at the possibility of someone, somewhere putting the primary and secondary shoes on backwards.

Another thing, check those emergency brake cables and make sure they are free.

Hope ya find 'er,

Allan
 
With the left doughnut needing replacing I think I could hear if it was engine surge. If it was engine surge whats the most likely culprit.

I know my EGR keeps getting plugged. I"ve cleaned this one three times and my code says it needs it again.
 
Howdy
Dellbertt, reading about your problems with things plugging up, I would guess you are one of those people that likes to warm up your car before you drive it (not really a good thing), that or try another brand of gas.
Bob S.
 
Well hello Bob S, I"ve got a few thousand take off and landings in below freezing weather with piston aviation engines and haven"t popped a jug yet, I do believe in getting the oil temp up into the green with them before going. But with liquid cooled vehicles I"m not really a fanatic about letting things set idling too long, as soon as it runs smooth I go, but I dont work a cold engine very hard. I would be interested in you reasoning behind working a cold engine very hard.
Dell
 
Hey Dellbertt
You dont understand, we are in complete agreement. I had no idea how you treat your engines but usually the people that experience some of those problems are the ones that start up their cars (and I am talking cars here) and then go in the house and eat breakfast, read the paper, take a bathroom break, and then go outside and slide into a nice warm car and take off down the road, water pouring out of the tail pipe like a faucet, from condensation. They also dont get too long of a life out of various components, especially exhaust system related.
So to me it sounds like you are doing everything according to the book (vehicle owners manual), and I dont recall telling anyone to go out and work a cold engine hard.
I have never warmed up an engine for more than 5 minutes in my life, never broke one either, but then again I have only been driving for 57 years and it seldom gets past 30below zero around here.
Bob S.
 
Thanks all. I can and probably will change it. And blow through it. Allen, you hit the nail on the head. That's what I really wanted a technical explantion as to how fuel flow could be determined with instrumentation.
 
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