OT: HAS ANYONE BOUGHT, BUILT, USED A HYDRAULIC TOP LINK ???

charles todd · Nov 16, 2008

I am thinking of buying a hydraulic top link to use with my "Root Rake" I just recently built. Has anyone used these before? Is it recommended to use a DPOCV (double pilot operated check valve) to handle shock loads? I was reading some post on TractorByNet.com and there was a lot of info there on compact tractors users regarding HTL. It seems like a good idea.

Charles

Theman · Nov 17, 2008

We have a hydraulic cylinder on the top link of our bale fork. Hooking it up can be trickier but it's well worth the trouble. Valving hasn't been a problem on the 85 hp Deere 2955.

Chris from Wa · Nov 17, 2008

I have an hydraulic toplink on my 544. I use it mainly for depth adjustment on my flail mower. It also comes in handy with my finish mower. The finish mower rides on four wheels, so when I'm mowing on uneven ground, I extend the toplink to allow the mower to float by itself. When I want to lift the mower for transport, I retract the toplink before raising the 3 point hitch. The hydraulic toplink makes for easier hookups on some implements because all you have to do to position the toplink is move a lever. I'm not familiar with a DPOCV.

charles todd · Nov 17, 2008

The DPCV is a load holding device that blocks the cylinder ports when the valve is in neutral. When you shift your remote valve it over comes the spring-loaded check valve. It is suposed to prevent the cylinder from "creeping" if the tractor valve is worn. I had previously used my remotes for my loader before I plumbed in a loader valve. I did not notice much "creep".

I am wondering if this is really nessecary? You have a 544 which is an older tractor. Do you have "creep" issues? I am unsure of this particular unit. It has metric fittings and most likely from Europe. I am not sure if it can be used in the float position if required. I can get a good quality unit cheaper that is made in the USA.

Thanks again,
Charles

Chris from Wa · Nov 17, 2008

Charles: My 544 was built in 1968 so it isn't too old as tractors go. I have no problems with creeping. The hydraulics are rock solid.

JSharp · Nov 18, 2008

The Carter & Carter Cat 1 hydraulic top links are $185 and have the double piloted check valve. The cylinders have BSP ports but come with adapters to make them NPT. I'm not sure how much cheaper you can find a similar one without the valve and I don't really see any downside to having it. I've seen no complaints about the C&C items either.

One for my 404 is my next tractor part purchase. I think it'll be very handy for use with a box blade and my carry-all.

charles todd · Nov 19, 2008

JSharp, I went ahead and bought the CCM Cat 1 link tuesday. I am expecting it by the end of the week. I'll snap a pic of it when I get the hoses on it. I made two 3/8" hoses for it today and have the 90 degree fittings to adapt from the BPTP to NPT threads. I recommend CCM for hydraulic top links, side links, and anything else they sell. Mark is a knowledgable and friendly guy.

Charles

JSharp · Nov 20, 2008

That would be great Charles.

I intend to order one from C&C in the next couple of weeks. I'd like to see the hose and fittings you end up with so I can get mine made up.

I was wondering if I should use 1/4 hose and fittings to make sure it's not too sensitive. Seeing how yours works with 3/8" parts should tell us if that's worth worrying about.

I still need to rebuild the detent assemblies in my control valves like you did. One of mine kicks out too easily. I wish I'd have done that before I installed the valves. On my 404 they're a pain to get off and put back on...

OT: HAS ANYONE BOUGHT, BUILT, USED A HYDRAULIC TOP LINK ???

charles todd

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Theman

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charles todd

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