head gasket leaking

I've been working the bugs out of my F20. I maybe have 10hrs run time on it now. this morning, I put a new fan belt on it. Than, my son & I took it for a ride, when we got back to park it, I went to retard my mag & noticed the headgasket now has a new wet spot (see pic). Is this normal? Can I just re-torque my head bolts? (what's the torque spec?)...or, do I need to pull the head & replace the gasket (where can I get one?)....I guess I should expect this kind of stuff from a 71yr old machine, but, it seems like it's just one thing after another now. thanks

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr4/kennebunksawmill/newbeltf20002.jpg

Well if it is running, it is in darn good shape, and all issues are small! The leak is not normal but common. Don't look too close at your other vehicles, they also leak. You can try retorquing, If it were mine, I would break each bolt loose just enough to free it, then retorque to specification, no more. Keep track of the bolt head location (mark the head to locate the rotation). if the process tightens then a bit, keep doing it. If they remain at the same turn of bolt, or less, turn them to that original mark. Do this one bolt at a time, not all at once. If it still leaks (probable) put on a new gasket and use copper coat spray on both sides of the gasket and let it get very near to dry befor assembly. (a milling of the head .050" won't hurt it either) JimN

I"d probably just put a new head gasket on it. They are available from Gordon Rice ar Rice Equipment in Pa. www.riceequipmentinc.com/ He has just about any thing you might need.

heck, i would be happy with that little leak!

Try Alderson Tractor 641-624-2275 we offer a composite head gasket that will seal a head when a steel one won't.

I would go with Darrell Alderson's advice. I've used his gaskets, (which are not the old metal gaskets with asbestos in between) and they are excellent, if you're careful with torquing. They will also take coppercoat.

Unless your plans are to paint it and assuming it runs well and there is no coolant contamination in the oil why not let it be?

(quoted from post at 11:08:43 11/19/08 )
Unless your plans are to paint it and assuming it runs well and there is no coolant contamination in the oil why not let it be?

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I'm a bit bi-polar I guess! :lol: As noted before, if you don't have water getting into your cylinders or oil, and you don't plan on painting it, that shouldn't hurt to leave it as is.

On the other hand [a good option too], if you're going to pull the cover, you may need a new gasket there - of course they're quite cheap, but if retorquing doesn't cut it, now you already have that cover off.... so here comes the "price creep":
a new head gasket - (less than $50?, though a few more to go with the job may double that) yeah, why not.
however, maybe a valve job wouldn't be a bad idea - since the head is off you know
of course, now it's half apart, maybe some new rings would be in order; yeah that's only $100 and a few more gaskets
hmmmm, better be safe and give the sleeves a date with the ridge reamer for those new rings - wait,,,, .050 worn, maybe new sleeves too
better set the rods [ohh, how sloppy were the wrist pins to the rods?], how do those main bearings feel?
All these new gaskets, I better get some new hoses too!
Well, that's nearly a new engine, it deserves new plugs: only $30, if I'm spending $30 on plugs better add $20 for some nice new wires...
Ohhh, man I better give this new engine a carb kit; mag kit too!

And $200, maybe $500, possibly $1000 later (or more if things like guides entice you, or things like cracked head, ect show up)! Good as new! 8)

And none are a bad option, just depends upon what you want to do...... however, just warning "price creep" is an easy thing to fall into! :lol: