lead addative / winter oil viscosity

1938 F20 · Nov 13, 2008

I "think" I finally have all the bugs worked out of my F20. I fixed my block that was weeping & I fixed my fuel flow problem (clogged filter). Now, someone told me I "have" to run a lead addative to my fuel or I'll damage my valves? Is this true? I was told by others that the lead addatives causes modern fuel to spoil more rapidly. Second question is the oil, I plan on using it in the upcoming Wells Maine Christmas Parade on Dec 14th, I run straight 30W oil in all my other tractors, but, can I run a 10-30W in this one to make hand cranking easier in feezing temps? BTW, this should be funny, everyone else (including my son on a 49 Super A) will be running a restored tractor, I'll be the only one driving down the center of town on a hand-crank-71yr old rusty tractor!

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr4/kennebunksawmill/DSC03679.jpg

Janicholson · Nov 13, 2008

No additives are needed at all. Run it as is. If it is timed correctly, it will be fine. I have been running old iron for 20 years on a variety of fuels from unleaded, to MTBE laced Fuel in Colorado. There are no real documented issues at all, supporting the "need" for additives. JimN

NDS · Nov 13, 2008

Have worked old Farmalls hard for 10/12 hours day on unleaded gasoline with no problems. The distiilate and kerosene most of these old tractors were designed to run on did not contain lead either.

gary in canada · Nov 13, 2008

im not sure of this but my dad (rip) told me once that unleaded was the only gas available years ago, lead was added many years later, more expensive at the time as well, if he was right about this than i would think that any engine that old would be designed to run on unleaded fuel, maybe some of the older fellows here can tell me if im way off base here or not

Anonymous-0 · Nov 13, 2008

F20 can use straight unleaded gas- old manuals suggest 1 cup of engine oil to 5 gallons of gasoline. The engine doesn't run fast enough- cam duration isn't open enough to cause exhaust valve seat erosion problems. IHC Super H,Ms may have some erosion if run steadily at 1800 RPM, Cases and AC late 50s noted to also be susceptable- this from a Wallaces Farmer articles early 80s when unleaded became standard- 1500 RPM seemed to be the start of extra erosion. Ford Ns were not at risk as Ford had used stellite seats to start and JD twins didn't run too fast and valve timing didn't have long duration. F20 governed 1000/1200 RPM- just add a bit of oil to gas like old manuals suggested. RN

Anonymous-0 · Nov 13, 2008

F20 can use straight unleaded gas- old manuals suggest 1 cup of engine oil to 5 gallons of gasoline. The engine doesn't run fast enough- cam duration isn't open enough to cause exhaust valve seat erosion problems. IHC Super H,Ms may have some erosion if run steadily at 1800 RPM, Cases and AC late 50s noted to also be susceptable- this from a Wallaces Farmer articles early 80s when unleaded became standard- 1500 RPM seemed to be the start of extra erosion. Ford Ns were not at risk as Ford had used stellite seats to start and JD twins didn't run too fast and valve timing didn't have long duration. F20 governed 1000/1200 RPM- just add a bit of oil to gas like old manuals suggested. Oil for winter? Try 10-30 to ease cranking- F20 is more of a splash system with rod bearing trays and crank ball bearings instead of plain bearing pressure lube. the 10-30 will flow and splash a bit easier than straight 30. RN

Kris M · Nov 13, 2008

the lead in the fuel was not to make it run better but to keep it running well. the old tractors did not have hardened seats which is what the leaded gas was for.

John G. Hasler · Nov 13, 2008

Tetraethyl lead was added to increase the octane.

Janicholson · Nov 13, 2008

If it were mine I would put 10-40 oil in it all the time. Thin when cold thick when hot. Good protection all the time. 15-40 is also good if you live where it freezes but does not bite into below zero very much. JimN

sammy the RED · Nov 13, 2008

Unleaded gas will be okay.
10w30 should be just fine.

[b:1d56197096] Don't use 10w40.[/b:1d56197096]

Anonymous-0 · Nov 14, 2008

Your tractor looks great unrestored/unpainted. We run lots of rusty-crusty tractors in parades. Enjoy!

Red Mist · Nov 14, 2008

(quoted from post at 19:26:23 11/13/08) Tetraethyl lead was added to increase the octane.

Actually, it was added to protect the valves and valve seats. mike

Anonymous-0 · Nov 14, 2008

Red,
Actually, no Gm backed the Ethyl Corp. as an octane improver,
the valve seat protection was an additional benefit. Google
either term and read some interesting history involving "lead"
and/or ethanol as octane boosters.

Janicholson · Nov 14, 2008

Gary below is correct, the buildup of deposits on combustion chambers and valves is a thing of the past. The deposits included spark plugs and made life miserable, for owners but profitable for mechanics shops and Champion/AC/NGK/Bosh/Autolite.
We now see plugs last 75000 miles in a car because of the lack of metallic deposits. It was absolutely a Octane booster, allowing high compression engines to operate making smaller displacement usable, or bigger displacement serious business. JimN

lead addative / winter oil viscosity

1938 F20

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