Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hi,
I just bought a B275 and am loving it. The guy I bought it from said "you have to give it a shot of ether since these old ones didn"t have glow plugs." I"m new to tractors so didn"t know any better, just that it ran great once it started, didn"t leak and the price was right.

Now I find out it"s got glow plugs and I"m wondering if anyone has a picture of the control panel/dash and can tell me where the button and indicator light should have been.

I sure appreciate the help!
 
Hi Shane, there should be an "L" handle switch to hold down to activate the glow plugs and the indicator should look like the top of a salt shaker. Hold the handle down until the coil behind the salt shake top glows. Warm weather will not require as much glow, the colder it gets the more glow required. Don't hold down to long or you will burn out glow plugs or indicator. They are all wired in series like the old xmas tree lights, one blows and they all don't work.

Good luck
JimB
 
Early B-275s with air-governors and in-line CAV injection pumps are awful starters and needs lots of glow-plugging - even when it's 60 degrees out.

Later B-275s with mech-governed, rotary CAV pumps tend to start much better - but still need glow plugging in just about all weather.

Keep in mind that all the five glow plugs are hooked in series. So, if any one of them is bad, none will work. Your tractor has four in the engine, and one in the dashboard that works as a resistor and indicator. You can buy new plugs at NAPA surprisingly cheap - around $10 each.

If someone has been using ether for a long time on your engine, it's probably ruined and needs a rebuild.

You can buy all the engine parts here on this website - even the glow-indicator on the dash.
 
Thanks guys!

Following your advice I found the lever and the indicator, but nothing happened. As soon as the rain stops I'll inspect the glow plugs and get them running. You've been a great help!
 
Be careful wiring the glow plugs. There are two contacts on the top of each plug...one is the metal ring and the other is the metal stud that the nut screws onto. The two wires on each plug need to be separated by the ring shaped insulator.

Assuming you still have the original jumpers, there will be two sizes of rings on the ends. The order is, starting from the front:

#1, outer connection - small ring, connecting to the engine block

#1, inner connection - large ring, connecting to the large ring (inner connection) on #2

#2 outer connection - small ring, connecting to the outer connection on #3

#3 inner connection, large ring, connecting to the inner connection on #4

#4 outer connection, wire to dash indicator.

If the original jumpers are missing, just wire them in series. These plugs don't care which way the current flows as long as they're not connected directly across 12 volts.

If someone wired them wrong, they've probably burned out the dash indicator by shorting it to ground, as happened to mine. Fortunately the break was close to one end of the indicator/resistor wire, so I just moved the unbroken end into the terminal. Might make the plugs run a little hotter, but not much.

Just got new plugs at NAPA, Champion CH-28, $16 each.

Some one had been using ether on mine, also. I finally got it to fire the other day without ether, am making progress. Compression is a little low but consistent across all four cylinders, which doesn't help the hard starting problem. I also think the injectors are probably clogged, which doesn't help either. If running a couple tankfuls of fuel with injector cleaner doesn't help, I'll probably have to have the injectors rebuilt.

Good luck, neat little tractor.

Keith
 
Thanks for the wiring information, it will sure come in handy.

I'm hoping that my motor is fine. Seems to run great as soon as it's started. The guy I bought it off of buys tractors at auctions and supposedly "rebuilds" them. . .if you call pressure washing and cans of spray paint rebuilding. He didn't even know what model it was. He only had it a few weeks so the damage should be minimal.

Guess I should buy a gauge to check the compression. More fun stuff to learn.
 

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