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old block repair weeping:

1

1938 F20

New User
I brought home a 38' F20 this past week. Finally got some time to play w/ it today. It runs real good, one crank w/ some choke & on the next try, she fires. Here's my question, my block has one old repair (1" x 3"), after running the tractor for about an hour, it started to weep, not drip, just weep. Do I need to bother to try to fix this more? Scuff it up & try JB Weld? of just leave it alone & "watch" it? I've got a 50/50 antifreeze mix in it now.
DSC03676.jpg

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr4/kennebunksawmill/DSC03676.jpg
 
My son has grandpa's 38 and it has a weld repairon the side of the block. When we got it ther end of the weld was seeping also, and we cleaned it up real good and put some JB weld on it, smoothed it down and painted it. Hasn't leaked since and it has been probably 8 years since we fixed it. No pressure on the cooling system so no problem holding the water in.
 
I had a similar situation with an A we just redid. I scrubbed it very thoroughly with a wire wheel on a drill, then rubbed it with acetone several times. Then I used a product called Devcon tp patch it. That stuff worked very well. It's been two years of moderate use and no problems whatsoever.

Hope this helps
 
Interesting topic... I have a 1962 Farmall 504 with the D188 in it. At one time, probably in the late 60's to early 70's (before we got it) it threw a rod. Engine was rebuilt and the pieces welded back in. They used some sort of silver coating on it inside and out. It weeps pretty good and keeps side of the block wet, though does not cause oil level issues.

I have wondered if when (if ever) I rebuild the engine if I should grind into the weld and use a cast or 308L stainless rod to reweld the patch. It has some porisity and I think the "wormholes" are the leak path. It would be nice to apply an epoxy to it.

Charles
 
The Regular that I restored had a cracked block behing the carb. and manifold. Vee'd it out, cleaned it repeatedly, and used JB Weld. Waited 'til the JB Weld was quite firm and stippled it with a nylon brush to make it look like cast. When painted it is hardly noticeable and has not leaked in 3 years.
 
The Devcon is a great product for that type of repair. I have used JB Weld and Fiberglass and even Rubber cement the type used to seal windshields and they all can work.
 
Drill the ends of the cracks to keep them from 'growing'. After a crack has been 'fixed' with JB weld, brazing, silversolder and such, it cannot be welded at a later date because of the material contamination. Think long and hard before doing some of these fixes. In your case, I determine the material used for the fix and then plan accordingly. Many times you can drain out the 50/50 mix and go to straight water. The water will allow the cast to rust and the rust will seal up the crack. Then go back with the 50/50 mix. Good Luck.
 
I understand the waterjacket crack, but mine is in the oil sump. Not the pan but around the crank area behind the injector pump. I guess without getting involved, I will not know what it was welded or sealed with.

Charles
 
Get a package of ground ginger,your wife probably has one in the kitchen,warm up the f-20 dump the ginger in the radiator. If it doesn`t work you have lost $1.50. We run it in road trucks all of the time.
 
Guy at work told me yesterday that his radiator was leaking on his truck. He said he dumped a can of black pepper in... It still runs. Don't know about the leak.

Charles
 
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