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frozen bolts on Farmall 560

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I need to move my rear wheels out a couple inches on both sides to accomodate a cab. I got
one loose and slid out with no problem using a
1 5/16" box-end wrench. On the other side, the
two bolts on the tractor side loosened without
much trouble but the two on the outside won't
budge. Clearance is a little limited because of
wheel weights. I think I can remove it OK with a little effort although it is rusted in place also. Anyone have a proven method for loosening
those big bolts on the wheel hub?
 
I had the same problem on an H just recently. Took the torch and warmed the outside of the hub as hot as I could get it, let it cool slightly, sprayed with penetrating oil and let it set for about an hour. It still took some effort, but those bolts did come loose. Someday I will repaint that hub 'cause all the paint is now burnt off.
 
Gary: Personally I'd heat the clamp the big bolt screws into. I can't see any benefit in heating the wheel.

Having said that, I did have one of those years ago, never did come loose. In the end, I torched the bolts between wheel and clamp. I went to the IH dealer bought a new clamp and new bolts.
 
I have removed a lot of them and guess I have been lucky as have been able to get them all out with breaker bar and about 5 foot cheater handle. I have never had one to twist off but had one a while back where one bolt must have been twisted off and drilled out as bolt was one size larger than the rest. They can be tough removed draw bar bracket to use with mounting Saginaw hitch a few days ago and like yours one side came off easy and the other took 5 foot cheater bar all the way.
 
I agree, heat the CLAMP with a rosebud then hose it down with Kroil or CRC Knock'er Loose. Let it set a while then rap it hard with a ball peen, then reapply the peneterant. Then use a stout breaker bar and an 8' pipe. You are not going to twist of a 1" bolt.

Charles
 
and all the suggestions have been good ones, and I have used them all.

but everyone forgot the "old time" trick that often works, and I also use it in conjunction with all the other items listed:

tighten first, then try loosening..................

sounds crazy, but it works more times than it doesn't.
 

one thing I forgot to say about the "tighten" first. You are NOT trying to get the bolt or nut to move. You are trying to break the rust bond........
 
Like the other guys said ... I heat the clamp.....

Sometimes I see guys start ripping into getting a bolt out to the point it breaks...I have always stopped when it felt like it was getting stretched...applied pen iol .. then tighten it up a little.....keep working it in/out and it sometimes avoids those snapped ones....

But most of the time I get the hot wrench and heat it if there isnt problem with heating material around it...
 
Gary had that exact problem only on all 8 bolts. It took full torch bottles and a lot of patients but they finally came loose. The way we did it was heat then soak with pb blaster penetrating oil then let it cool then do it again and we hammered on them with a 1 inch impact(1400 ft lbs) that is equal to a really long cheater. They eventually did give up. Like a few others said patience is the key. Just dont try to go all at once work them back and forth
 
Had same problem with the 43 H. Used impact wrench, in and out, hosed with Free, finally all came out well, made a thread chaser, mototool on threads of bolt, ran it in and out, really cleaned up the threads in castings. Ran the same bolts back in, after cleaning up, and worked good. cheerzzzz
 
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