How do I split a Farmall H

My Farmall H decided to crack in half a few months ago. The clutch housing casting broke where it joins the rear end. Apparently the heads broke off severallower bolts first, then the upper sides and top of the casting shattered. It was one heck of a ride when it broke, and I was launched on top of the steering wheel. Fortunately my loader frame kept things together and the hydraulic coupler fell out the gap, causing my loader to drop and stabalize the narrow front end.

I was backing up when this happened and had a bucket load of dirt in the loader. As it split, the engine throttle lever was pulled and the engine went to full power. I did manage to kill the power in time.

Anyhow, that"s what happened. Now I am trying to rip it apart and see if it"s repairable if I buy another clutch housing.

So far I have the rear part completely disconnected and sitting on blocks. I was able to remove the drive shaft inside, and have the hydraulic pump off. Blocking the engine has been a pain. I have 2 high lift jacks under the side rails next to the engine, and have the whole front end stabalized with come-alongs to trees on both sides.

I have removed all 8 of the main bolts that hold it to those rails (with holes), that go along side of the engine. There are two bolts above, and two below that rail on both sides. (I left 2 bolts in place, part way loose). I also found one long bolt next to the starter, and another inside (opposite side) behind the starter. I removed both of them. I also removed a small time cover with 3 small bolts under the housing near the engine oil pan. Plus, I removed that bracket on top of the housing that holds the gas tank and other stuff in place.

I have tried to pry the housing backwards, and was able to get a 1/8" gap on one side by driving in a wedge. Yet, it seems that there is another bolt or more somewhere, because I"d think it would slide back easily until the 2 remaining bolt heads stop it. (As I said they are partly unscrewed). ARE THERE MORE BOLTS? WHERE?

Lastly, the clutch lever is still in place. (where the cluthc pedal linkage connects - yes, the linkage is removed) Does that lever need to come out, and if so, how? Also, so I need to do anything with the clutch / pressure plate, / or throwout bearing before I pull off the housing?

My intent is to just let the housing fall off, with a straw bale under it. It"s broke anyhow, and I dont want it falling on my foot.

This is rather nerve wracking, since things are not the most stable. How far back do I need to pull the housing, or will it just drop straight down once all bolts are out?

Drawings showing the bolts would be most helpful, as well as any instructions about the clutch assembly removal.

PS. this is a 1951 or 52 model H.

Thanks

Bucky

STOP!!! DO NOT DO ANOTHER THING TO THAT UNTIL YOU HAVE A SET OF SPLITTING STANDS INSTALLED!!!!!!! That tractor is a fatal accident waiting to happen!!!!!! Get a set of splitting stands and talk to somebody that knows how to use them. I have a set and my son and I split a Farmall M on a cement floor without any problems. Please get help before you go any farther!!!!!! Armand

Please send me a picture of these splitting stands. You can email me directly with the photo.
I do have the front part of the tractor chained to trees, so it's really can not tip over. I also have an A frame (stand from an old fuel tank overhead and chained to the engine rails).

I can guarantee you that I wont be able to find the actual splittings stands around here. This is rural Iowa. The local tractor repair place dont even have anything made for this. (I already asked them what they use, and they said "whatever is available". However, with photos I can weld something up.

Thanks

Bucky

Google cofey splitting stands and see what comes up(one idea). I am not good at e-mailing pictures. I am/was hoping someone else would add to this conversation. I have used the cofey stands and they are top drawer! The set I have is crude in comparision but they get the job done safley. One problem is that the back half of the tractor has to mave back from front half of the tractor at least a foot or more to give you room to work. Ineed to look tomorrow for some pictures or drawings or web addresses to send to you. There should also be information on this in the archives on this site. (Sometimes I don't spelso good either. I will try to get back to you in the AM. Armand

Sounds like a mess there Bucky. I do not have a set of "formal" splitting stands either. What I do is I make a set of "legs" out of channel iron and bolt them to the engine sub-frame rails. Next I have an I-beam mounted from the roof. I have a chain hoist on a trolley that I sling the rear halve to. Once I get it all aligned and ready I bolt the legs to the front halve then unbolt the bell housing. Once unbolted I just roll the rear halve back on its tires and the chain hoist on the trolley follows.

I know you do not have the facilities nor the equipment to do this since you mentioned trees. All I can suggest is to take some angle or channel iron and support the engine half.

Good luck Bucky... Let us know how it turns out.

Charles

Buckey: OMAR Tractor Co also makes splitting stands. They sent me some pictures but the pictures are kind of small. I have a name and phone number for you. Eric Wise @ 419-426-0610. Also I think OTC tool co. makes splitting stands. I will still get back to you in the AM. Hope this helps. Armand

Buckey: I just went to www.redpowermagazine and typed in splitting stands and found some good pictures. Good luck. Armand

Buckey: I just went to www.redpowermagazine and typed in splitting stands and found some good pictures. Good luck. Armand

Thanks for the advice. While I have a garage, there was no way to get it in there. It broke out in my horse pasture and I was lucky to be able to drag it out and onto a slab of concrete where there was once a barn. To drag it I used something like 8 chains, 4 come-alongs, and several chain binders to hold the whole thing together. Then I dragged it out with my pickup truck, while someone steered the front wheels by putting a pipe between the tires (there was so much impact the post where the steering attaches bent, and the gas tank bolts all broke except one.

Anyhow, trees are all I had, and there is over 40 feet of chain and steel cable holding it all together. A mess it surely is. But the engine was a good runner as well as a good tranny and rearend. From the look of things, that housing and the throwout bearing bracket/holder are all that broke inside. I have to get the shaft checked to see if it's straight (it looks to be). Then I'll have to replace that steering post and get the steering linkage straightened. Plus removing the the broken gas tank bolts, and replacing some wiring that tore apart.

All in all, it appears there was less damage inside that clutch housing then I expected.

The tank frame I have over it, is a solid angle iron frame made to hold a fuel barrel overhead. I modified the ends so it fits over the tractor. I dont have a chain hoist, but comealongs should do the trick. I'd still like to get something under the engine half just for added protection. I'd be curious to see a photo of your stands if possible. I cant see how a single piece of steel bolted to the rails would do too much because it could tip forward or backward (of course I have the tires blocked, and have a vice grip on the steering shaft so the wheels can not turn).
I keep a stack of wooden blocks under the engine pan just in case..... I know the pan is not the best place, but there really is nothing else under there.

The rear is well secured. I moved the front when I split it, since the rear is well blocked on wooden blocks and the tires are blocked too. The rear is not going anywhere. When I moved the front, I went an inch at a time by moving the tire blocks and pushing between the rear and the cracked clutch housing with a large pry bar. Then I would re-adjust my tire blocks and cables to the trees, and do another inch.

I'm still looking for an answer from anyone that can tell me how to get the housing off, and where all the bolts are. Something is still holding it in place. The internal throwout bearing shaft may be part of the problem. I'm not sure how to get that part out.

Thanks

Bucky

You have only 4 bolts on each side, that go through the frame rails, and then two bolts on top, which it sounds like you found. then it will come apart if you you have the little stuff off, like oil line for guage, tube from head to air cleaner, and wires. there are dowl pins along with the bolts that hold the engine and clutch housing together. you don't need splitting stands, you just need to be smart and safe. farmers in the old days didnt have stands, they just had common sense.

To get clutch housing off of trans, take out the bolts you can see on top and sides, and then there are two bolts inside on the bottom, you have two take ispection cover off to get at. just be carefull, there are pins holding them together too.

Bucky There should be two dowel pins (one on each side) with threads on engine side of steel plate that bolts to back of engine. Put a nut on the threads and tighten, this should pull the dowel pins. I think the nuts are 5/8".

Bucky,

Can't tell you how sorry I am that you had to learn that lesson the hard way. That is one gut-wrenching thing to have happen to anyone.

Good luck, Pard. You'll get 'er back together in a few days.

Allan

In my first post I should have advise you to get a I&T service manual to give you an idea of what to look for and exploded pictures. This service manual or one like it are a must have item. As far as angle iron supports for the back of the engine you use a dianogal brace from the bottom of the rear stands to the side rails at the front of the engine. I don't have my service manual handy but i think there are pictures of support/splitting stands in the manual. You can get these manuals from this site. Any pictures? BTW more important to be on concrete pad than inside building. Good luck and stay safe. Armand

When splitting an H There is a bolt in front of the starter. Remove the starter and remove that bolt otherwise you won"t get it apart, also a long bolt just to the left of the starter lookingat it from the back.