(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

super c front crank pulley

J

Jonathan Mirgon

Member
I have read the posts on how to reinstall the front crank pulley on these engines, and I am sure that it works well, I am getting ready to put a new one on a rebuilt engine. How does the new pulley not melt my new front seal if it is heated to 350 degrees when I slide it onto the crank ?
 
I would try 200 degrees. Be sure to leave the
bolts loose in the timing gear cover and coat the
lip of the seal with lubi-plate. This will allow the hub to center itself in the cover and will provide enough lubricant so the seal isn't damaged. Hal
 
I just went through my super c engine. The seal retailer told me the seal material would be good up to 250 degrees. I put the pulley in an electric skillet and set it for 225 degrees for an hour. the end of the crank is threaded. i used a piece of all thread and a stack of washers and a grade 5 nut. screw all thread into the crank shaft. when the nut move anymore get a big deadblow hammer, as you put preesure on the nut use the hammer. keep it up till the pulley seat solid on the cranksaft. DON"T POUND ON THE EDGE OF THE PULLEY. hope this helps Ron
 
Jon, here's another way.
I tried this first, with a bottle jack...

pulley10.JPG


...but it flexed too much, so I cut and redrilled the channel iron and tried it like this with a 6x6, and it was super-stable...

pulley11.JPG


...and the pulley slid right on.
I did exactly like Hal said, and had the cover loose and the seal coated.
Ron's method sure sounds easier, and my crank was also threaded, but I've heard from others where their's weren't. I had to clean a lot of mud and chaff out to even realize mine was threaded.
I heated my pulley to 200 degrees in our oven, (when the redhead wasn't home), and the bottle jack got it on right quick and easy before it could cool off and start to 'grab', but I've also heard that some bottle jacks won't work when they're on their side, and I've also heard that they will if the 'pump' part of the jack is toward the floor, but I can't promise anything either way. Mine worked, and I don't remember if I had the 'pump' at the bottom or not. Big help, huh?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
1086 injection pump timing
Replies
5
Views
353
Dieseltech
D
H
Farmall Super C
Replies
2
Views
392
rustred
rustred
W
560 Valve setting
2
Replies
23
Views
930
WHFarms
W
M
4020 Crankshaft Pulley Removal
Replies
4
Views
644
4520BW
4
R
Super C disc brakes
Replies
11
Views
387
Levi81
L
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top