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Loosener Preference

W

Wayta

Member
PBBlaster is referred to time and again. It must be very good product. But, what are the stories for Kroil or Strongarm?
Wayne
 
Ive never had to much luck with PBBlaster on really rusted and stuck nuts and bolts, although I have used it on some things with success. Ive broke engines that had been sitting for many years with KRoil, but dont get it on you, it stinks to high heaven!
 
I like Kroil, it is my personal favorite. CRC Knocker Loose is the closest I have ever seen to Kroil. Either one will loosen dang near anything.

Charles
 
Kroil is a good choice And so is Break-a-way as it leaves aoily film behind. PBBlaster is better than nothing. CRC556 is real good at drying wet iginations. Farm & Fleet used to sell Break-A-Way but nobody knows why they quit selling it. Hopefully I can find a new vender or order direct from the factory. Armand
 
gibbs advertises as the only patented penetrant. the best thing that pb blaster is good for is to melt stryofoam cups like it shows on the label. really the only penetrant that has worked for me comes in a large pressurized bottle and is called acetylene. things really get rusted fast in ohio.
 
(quoted from post at 14:06:41 10/31/08) PBBlaster is referred to time and again. It must be very good product. But, what are the stories for Kroil or Strongarm?
Wayne
Click to expand...
I like Lawson Non-Flamable - because it is good and you can use a torch at the same time you are spraying it on the stuck area. However, I have never found one that will do all the things us tractor guys wish.
mike
 
I mostly use PB blaster. I also use Kroil. both produce good results, but my ability to get Kroil isn't nearly as easy as blaster.

Once again, when talking about penetrants, there are a couple of good ones, and then snake oil rears its ugly head.....

If you really want to break badly rusted bolts/nuts loose, heat them first, then treat with your product of choice. Just like when soldering, you heat the piece, and "draw" the solder into the joint with the heat. same with penetrants. Heat the bolt or nut then apply the penetrant. no need to go wild with the heat, ie. don't go to "cherry", just heat to the point that the rust turns color. then soak with your favorite product.
 
It doesn't have the reputation of some of those hard to find penetrants but I have had great success with Liquid Wrench.
 
Blaster is good but one spray and your skin, clothes, and shop smell like it. Not that I'm in a fashion show or a sissy but it gets a little over powering. I find that if just about any penetrating oil won't do it then you are beyond that stage anyways.
 
I use a lot of Liquid Wrench, too. I find it works plenty well enough for most, and is a lot more economical than the others if I'm goin' to be usin' heat as well.
 
Not so much as penetrant, but a bulk lubricant. Buy a gallon of WD-40 and a gallon of diesel. Mix half-n-half then put in a spray bottle. Works good on open chain, slides, ect. The diesel helps the WD-40 to seep in. WD-40 by its self is about crap though.

Charles
 
Appreciate the responses and the add-ons. I was just introduced to Kroil by a friend who came, dumped some into SMTA which we had nursed with WD-40+diesel. In two days that baby turned and fired in first go around. What did what - is up to question, but it is now running.
Was at Wheatland Johnnie Pop's last week and bought Strongarm - will see what it does as well.
You see, I have three more to get unstuck!
Thanks, all of you.
Wayne
 
I spray stuff with soapy water and keep them wet if I have time to let things soak.
Sometimes I heat then soak with soapy water, or what is known as wetter water, LOC from amway was a product which did it. Every leave a tractor in the elements and have to drain everything?
As far as putting something in an engine I use marvel/transmission and penetrating oil, sometimes a diesel.
 
Lots of discussion on a competitive forum. Many are promoting a combination 1/2 ATF and 1/2 acetone. Also saw someone recommend Oil-of- Wintergreen.
 
People don't use penetrating oil properly, and don't understand how it works.

They spray a bolt, slap on a wrench, and if it turns, boy oh boy that Whizbang Blastoil is great stuff!

Twist off the bolt, and man oh man that stuff is crap!

News flash: If that bolt turned, it wasn't because of the penetrating oil. It would've come all by itself.

Take a look at that bolt you just sprayed and removed. There is little or no penetrant on the threads where the nut covered them. They're mostly dry.

Penetrating oil takes TIME to penetrate. If you don't give it time, it won't do you any good.
 
Right on dude. You have to apply, tap with a hammer, apply again, try a wrench, apply and tap tap again. Sometimes I heat it up an as it cools I shoot some penetrant on it. Sure it smokes, but some of it is drawn in by capillary action.

Charles
 

Heck Charles, I was talking more like hours, days, weeks for a penetrant to work properly. Every day you walk by and shoot some on the stuck bolt. It wicks its way in eventually. I've gotten many bolts to come loose with this method, and you can see where the penetrant has actually penetrated into the threads when you finally remove the bolt.

It's not for when you need the bolt out NOW. That's what a flame wrench is for.
 
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