Light switch wiring ???

I have a 1953 Farmall Super M. The lights did not dim. I noticed the resistor on the switch was burned. I bought a used switch at a salvage yard. This new switch has FOUR positions, rather than the THREE on the original switch. I am assuming that I will have OFF LOW MED HIGH on this one. That"s fine. This new one also has a built in fuse on the back of it. It looks identical on the front (knob) to the one that I am replacing, so it is from some sort of Farmall.

I think the reason the original one burned out is because it was wired wrong. All the wiring on this tractor was in very poor condition and covered with tape and bad connections. I have rewired the whole thing. The only problem is what terminals to connect the wires on that light switch. There are seven screws, (not including the grounds). Most have no numbers on them. But there is a #1 #2 and #3. The #1 goes to the fuse, so I assume that would be the input from the battery. The #3 goes to one end of the resistor. The #2 has 2 screws with a jumper in between. Would that be the one that goes to the lights? Or would the fuse be on the light wiring end?

Does anyone have a schematic for the lights?
What might this 4 position switch come from?

Thanks for all help.

Bucky, that's the wrong switch. A 4 position switch is for not only controlling lights, but also controlling the charge rate. The four positions are low charge, high charge, dim lights, bright lights.

It is meant to be used with the earlier generator cutout design instead of the voltage regulator that you have right now.

There's no problem using the switch, it'll just have two OFF positions. Unfortunately I don't know the wiring for that particular switch.

Off, Dim, Bright, Field

Allan

Thanks for the help. I guess having 2 OFF positions is no problem. Or maybe I should just change the resistor to my ld switch since it just screws on. Guess I'll try both. I can just jumper that resistor in place with test leads and try it. I just need to be sure the wiring is correct first. Hope someone knows.

Bucky

I'd go that route (changing the resistor) myself. Trick is I don't know what to recommend for a resistor. Can hope somebody that does will chime in.

You might also just check out the connections at the end of the old resistor and for continuity across it. It's not unusual for the fabric covering on that coil to look a little toasted and still be perfectly functional.

Check out BobM's very excellent wiring diagrams below. Good chance you'll find something in there to help you sort out the terminals and wires.
Bob Ms Famous Lectricical Demystifiers

Allan, could be ODBF, IF it"s off a newer model.
if it"s off an older M then it"s Low(charge) High(charge) Dim Bright like others mentioned.


karl f

3 Ohm at 80 watts will do it it is big, and will heat up. JimN

The second position is for hi-charge and you dont need that. You dont have a wire from the Field on the generator to hook on that terminal anyway.

IMHO, the dim lights are absolutely useless. If you jumper where the resistor was with a piece of 14ga wire, you will have Off Bright Bright, and you won't have to worry about the resistor burning up again.

I suppose the dim lights were supposed to just be marker lights for road transport at dusk, rather than to provide useful light. Yeah, but it's not like the brights are so bright that you'd burn out the retinas of oncoming drivers... Modern "low beams" are far brighter than the brightest 6V headlights.

It has to be the older switch from a cut-out system. If it was the newer ODBR switch, it would be round and NOT have a fuse holder directly attached.