locked up engine

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I found a IH 364 diesel sitting up for 10-12 yrs w/exaust open and taking in rain. 2 qts. water in crankcase. pulled injectors, filled cylinders w/diesel, drained water. tried to turn over w/starter, big pipewrench,no luck. I was told to add brake fluid to injector ports then let sit for two or three days then put a long pipe wrench with a come-a-long on the pto shaft, put a bind on it and see if it would break loose. no luck ,,anyone have any thing else to try before I pull the head. tractor was free, i don"t have much to lose.
 
Well If its been that long I think I would take the head off. However this is what I did for my 706 that sat out side for 2 years and was froze up. I put trans fluid with Diesel mix down the exhaust pipe let it sit a few days and worked the motor back and forth on the flywheel, I used the timing port. It broke loose, I turned it over a few times with the bar to be sure there was"nt too much oil in the cylinders and fired it up. ran great and still does. changed the oil and all filters and was good to go. Good luck keep us posted.
 
One like that is a total rebuild type of thing. Nothing you pour in will fix the rusted up sleeves and stuck pistons. BTDT and free up lots of locked up engine but one that has been sitting with open exhaust that long it a parts tractor or a total engine rebuild
Hobby farm
 
I just got a '49 Super A unstuck that had not run for about 15 years. I ended up having to pull the head, spray PB Blaster directly on the pistons and let sit for several days. Most likely (at least in my case) the cylinder(s) that are stuck will not allow any fluid to drain, while the unstuck cylinders will allow fluid to pass. Once I had determined the most probable stuck cylinder, after pulling the oil pan, I used a piece of wood and floor jack to apply pressure directly to the crank at the connecting rod to the stuck piston. The next morning, I applied pressure with the jack to an unstuck piston that would put opposite pressure on the stuck piston, and, with another piece of wood, began tapping on the edge of the stuck piston. After several taps, the engine broke loose. Also, don't give up hope on the interior parts. After subsequently breaking down the engine completely, the only parts I am forced to replace are the rings and bearings...even the sleeves are in good shape. They don't make 'em like they used to!!
 

You can't expect an engine that's been setting up for that long to break free instantly, or even in a 2 or 3 days... Think WEEKS of constant soaking and rocking, maybe months, maybe never if it's as bad as you say.

Taking the head off, worst thing you're out is the head gasket, and you'll be able to see the condition of the tops of the pistons and liners.
 
You may expect not only the pistons to be stuck but also the valves to be stuck. The head needs to come off and inspect it.---and then start crying!
 
Kroil is the stuff to use. Order online from Kano Industries. Carburator cleaner is highly recommended also. Let it soak a while. If you can pry both ways on the ring gear you will have the best shot at it.
 

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