I started to remove the water pump on my 1950 Farmall C and have some questions.
1. Do I need to remove the radiator first? Looks like it is almost impossible to get the lower hose off without doing so.
2.Is there a tension adjustment on the fan belt? I don't see one readily visible, but there must be one somewhere.
Thanks,
Charles

You shouldn't have to remove the radiator. The shroud is in the way, but the job will go a whole lot easier if you remove the fan and the belts (including the generator belt).

And that will be the key to your belt tension adjustment. Your water pump belt runs off the crank pulley and also drives your fan, and the adjustment for the whole belt is at the fan.

The fan is mounted to a slot on the casting that holds your upper radiator hose. The slot SHOULD hold the nut on the back in place while you loosen the fan up. That is done by turning what looks like a nut (but is actually a part of the fan shaft that is machined into a hex) on the front of the slot. In other words, the shaft threads into the nut on the back of the slot in the bracket. You may have to fiddle and try to get a wrench on that back nut if it turns. If so, just hold the nut on the back side -- but do your turning on the shaft.

With the fan and belts out of the way, it's still close quarters, but you'll be able to go over the governor from the right side to get to the other bolts on the water pump and have room enough to wiggle the pump off the hose. Couldn't hurt to put a piece of corrugated cardboard on the back side of the radiator while you do this so you don't ding up your fins. It might also be helpful getting the pumps off and on to loosen the clamps on both ends of the lower hose to give youurself some added twist the geometry of finaglin' it off.

Getting your belt tension back is a matter of starting the fan shaft back onto the nut when you're done. Tighten it just enough for it to hold, then use whatever in the toolbox works to pry it up enough to get the belt tension right, and hold it there while you finish tightening the shaft onto the nut.

HTH

Thanks, very helpful. I have the shroud off now and am soaking that fan blade nut in BP Blaster.

Farmall C's did not have a water pump before about 1954, You must be talking about a Super C . Is this correct. How can you replace a pump that was not there before.

It might be a SuperC, but he could just as easily be dealing with a C that had a water pump put on it.

Scott is a little confusing with his fronts and backs. The hex on the shaft is on the back side (toward the rear of the tractor). That is what you put the wrench on to loosen the fan shaft in the slot. The nut is in the slot on the front side (the side toward the front of the tractor) of the casting that supports the fan shaft.

Gotta differ with ya on this one Haas. I've got a SuperC and a BN. On both, there is a nut at the rear (as toward the rear of the tractor) of the fan shaft. On one of my tractors, it's a square nut(though I think the book calls for a hex), on the other it's a hex. This nut slides up and down in the notch/slot on the rear of the bracket that is part of the cast outlet from the head to the radiator. The sides of the slot are deep enough to prevent this nut from turning once it starts to pull down into the slot and well before the shaft is tightened in sufficiently to secure the fan belt tension. The only way to tighten it down after it reaches that point is to turn the shaft to finish threading the shaft into it. For that purpose there is a section of the shaft just in front (toward the front of the tractor) of the bracket that is machined into a hex (looks like a nut) that you can put a wrench on to turn the shaft and thread it into or out of the nut at the back.

If we agree on front and back (basic enough, I'm confident we both know a grille from a drawbar, so there's not too much to disagree about there), yes there is a slot on the front of the bracket. And its much better machined than the one to the rear. That is so that the front is actually flat, to allow for a nice parallel alignment of the belt between the fan and crank pulley. A large flat washer fits over the shaft between the machined hex surface on the shaft and the face of that front slot. Point is that the surfaces of the large nut (square or hex) at the rear of the shaft bind up on the inside edges of the slot to the rear to give you something to turn against as you thread the shaft on and off, leaving you only the section of the shaft "looks like a nut" to get a wrench onto.

That's my story. I'm stickin' to it. ;8^)

Thanks again for all the help. I got the water pump off. It is a 1950 C serial number 50855.
Charles

You're welcome. Good job!

I guess I had a senior moment. You are correct. Somehow I got turned around in my thinking. I even looked at your post twice before I posted mine. Sorry!!

I must apologize to Scott. His post is correct. I guess I had a senior moment regards how the fan setup is configured. Sorry!

Not to worry! We just hadn't heard back from Charles yet when you wrote it, and I didn't want him to get snarled up. 8^)

Not to worry! We just hadn't heard back from Charles yet when you wrote it, and I didn't want him to get snarled up. 8^)

Not to worry! We just hadn't heard back from Charles yet when you wrote it, and I didn't want him to get snarled up. 8^)