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F-20 Cracked Block - - Solutions other than replacment?

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hey guys -

Knew this before my new F-20 followed me home, but there is a crack on the block on the carb side, which is the side I've seen most of them cracked on. It starts from the top and is about 3-4" long. I assume this was from a coolant freeze up at one point. It has some form of sealant on it for now and weeps some. Couple questions:

1) Does a crack in the block in this area have any affects on the life of the engine, other than a puddle on the floor?

2) If it were to be arc welded (I know it would have to be cleaned, end of the crack drilled, keep the heat in control and peen the weld as I go), other than regular old ni-cast rod, what rods have you used with better results. Can it be welded in the tractor (vertical welding) ?

3) The thought I am having is to clean up the area and bolt on a steel plate with a generous amount of silicone sealer under it. Although not authentic, I feel it would stop the leaks. Anybody ever do this?

What success/failures have you had ?

Thanks !

Pete
 
I found out my F-20 has a crack on the block behind the carb too, I've been told that JB Weld works well, so I'm going to try that on my tractor.
 
I think if you try to weld it, it will still seep.
JB Weld has worked well for me. I fixed many freexe cracks on a small Cat and it does not leak a drop and it seemed as hard as the cast when I ground it to finish it. Vee it out real good just like you were going to weld it. I used 2 coats and let it cure a week in hot weather. I have seen Cat engines plated behind the injection pump where thay are known to crack, that works too. Remember it is only the water jacket and the casting is likely quite thin. I think an attept at welding can cause more harm than good.

Just my opinion,

Tom
 
My son has one that my Grandpa bought new, and it had the same problem. Years ago a cousin of mine welded it up, don't know the details of how, and it is working good. Had one little seep when sn got it, but we JB welded it and it holds good. No pressure in the cooling system to hold back so it doesn't take much.
 
It can be pinned - by far the least risky way of fixing it. I would not recomend arc welding it - the only way to weld it with heat is to bring the whole block up to high temperature -unless you are just welding on the very corner of the casting. And pinning is by far the best looking fix cosmetically. Bolt a plate on it if you want - but it will look like hell and probably still seep - unlesss you have silicone oozing out everywhere.
I have repaired a few blocks and heads by pinning and have had zero problems, but it is a bit time consuming.

Ask a GOOD machinist about it.
 
I had the guys who turn crankshafts weld a Super C block. They put the block in an oven and welded about an inch at a time. The internal cracks were spray welded (? -an oxy-acetelyne set up) and the external crack was brazed. They charge $12 per inch. Looks and works good so far.

Greg
 
Find a Welder that says he can weld cast. If you are in a farming area, find one that makes "house calls." He probably has a welder mounted on a truck and will weld equipment in the field!

Have him weld it. Then smooth it off and cover with JB Weld to get an even surface and paint it. Had one repaired this way 20 years ago and no problen since!
 
Jim the fix-it guy in Penn Yan NY gave me some Devcon to fix mine. It has been 3 years of hard service and have had not one bit of problem. That Devcon is some great stuff. Worked just like Jim said it would
 
You might think about brazing it also. Very easy and it works well with cast iron. Just be sure to heat slowly and cool slowly. The bronze brazing rod is extremely strong. I brazed a piece that broke off my F-20 block and it works great. I ground a groove then filled it with the brazing rod and ground it smooth and you can't even tell it was repaired.
 
Pete pinning is drilling and threading bolts into the crack. Like sewing the first bolt is ground off after being threaded in and the second one is drilled into it and the block and so on till its sowed up
 
In UK there is a solution available which will fill a half mm crack.It is a mixture of Sodium Silicate and Copper. It remains liquid in the bottle and in plain water but solidifies in the atmosphere. Exposure to air solidifies it into a solid ceramic with a copper strengthener. It is capable of holding up under all the normal stress and expansion strains of engine cracks. This is NOT a run of the mill "radweld"product. The copper disperses heat and therefore you do not get a 'hotspot' problem. Its called "Kalimex Seal Up" I've no idea whether its available your side of the pond.I would agree that pinning (we call it stitching) is the safest answer if you need to go for a metal/metal repair. Luck MTF
 
When I get into the project, I think my plan will be to get the casting into allignment with a couple clamps, a couple drilled & tapped screws on the crack line, then grind flush. Afterwards, grind & clean the crack into a v-shape and fill with JB Weld or smimilar product, then grind flush.

The "pinning" that the Brits use will be used to keep both sides of the joint in alligmnent over time. The right epoxy fillers, I've learned, have the ability to handle some heat and are slightly elastic. Surface prep is key though. While the head is off, will also clean the water side of the crack and apply some orange hi-temp silicone along the crack, as an extra measure.

Will be starting work next Spring.

Thanks for your wisdom, guys !

Pete
 
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